Post subject: K2 Temptation - Liwe 158 (insert blocks no base patching)
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:36 am
Joined: Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:18 am Posts: 263
My soon to be 2nd diy split. K2 Temptation - Liwe 158. Hopefully this board will work well, having carbon layup it should stay stiff after spliting. Using skill saw and inlay metal edges for NZs variable conditions. Seasons are changing here! cant wait. Will post updates as i go.
having carbon layup it should stay stiff after spliting.
Actually quite the opposite can happen! Carbon fiber is cured under tension, and cutting it can release the tension. This can (not always) cause the carbon fiber to rebound (pull back together or lose its strength) and result in shape change. This happen to me on my 1st split cut, (my board had a full carbon topsheet) and the camber tripled after the cut. You mileage may vary, but that is just my
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having carbon layup it should stay stiff after spliting.
Actually quite the opposite can happen! Carbon fiber is cured under tension, and cutting it can release the tension. This can (not always) cause the carbon fiber to rebound (pull back together or lose its strength) and result in shape change. This happen to me on my 1st split cut, (my board had a full carbon topsheet) and the camber tripled after the cut. You mileage may vary, but that is just my
Yeah i am a little worried about this.i dnt think it has any carbon forks... I read that it has carbon in tip and tail and sme stringers running length wise, Hopefully it holds its shape. Was cheap anyway havnt got much to lose!
Finished kinda, has no holes but unsure of how strong it is. Crude destruction testing i got around 800lb per insert. +-80% haha leiw by Splitboards007, on Flickr Suit case clips! and some other experimental stuff. Kinda to small for me. Worked that out once i finished.
Post subject: Re: K2 Temptation - Liwe 158 (insert blocks no base patching)
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:33 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:18 am Posts: 263
Still havnt ripped out any inserts. and mostly riding hardpack and ice. Would recommend to any one thinking of diy. No base holes is sweet! -Router a slot wider than the tnuts (25-30mm ~1in) and i went with 3 inserts so (90mm 4in long) from the top down to the bottom glass layer in the board. -Cut a block in the shape of the hole routed. i used ply for strength. And fit was tight. building a jig here will help. -Make sure tnuts sit flush with bottom so router/ forstner holes -epoxy and clamp in place - add a final layer of epoxy and sand smooth
i think your more likely to snap a board than pull the inserts, guess it really needs 50days+ to confirm its solid so take it as is.
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