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 Post subject: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 3:39 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Is there a countersink drill bit that is flat instead of V shaped? I'd really like to put some epoxy in there and use something to smooth and flatten the excess. Also, are those hex socket bolts on the chinese hooks a special order type of bolt? I've never seen them anywhere.


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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:44 pm
Posts: 82
Location: Talkeetna mountains, ak
Are you talking about drilling out for the t-nuts? If so, a forstner bit works really well for this.. If you're talking about the the countersink hole for the Chinese hooks this takes an actual countersink bit, something like this works well.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... CHgQ8wIwAQ

And the "hex" bolt you speak of is very common, just an allen bolt.

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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 3:39 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Isn't that bit for V shaped countersinks? The head of my bolt is completely flat and non conical.


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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:44 pm
Posts: 82
Location: Talkeetna mountains, ak
Then I would either use a forstner bit or a paddle bit.

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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:32 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:01 pm
Posts: 800
Location: Colorado
mountainbikeak wrote:
forstner bit
This!!!

Image

Also that bit is for sinking (recessing) screwheads in wood, not a traditional countersink bit

Image

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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:44 pm
Posts: 82
Location: Talkeetna mountains, ak
Just be careful with any of these tools, it doesn't take much to drill to deep, so take your time especially on the first one.

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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 3:39 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Forstner. Thank you so much! Yeah I work very slow when I use tools and this board is one of the most important things to me so it will not be harmed.


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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:01 pm
Posts: 800
Location: Colorado
If you have an old board to drill on it may help you get your depth measurements correct. I have drilled to deep on a couple insert by getting overzealous.

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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2011 2:16 am
Posts: 111
Location: New Zealand
I set my router up, actually its a baby laminate trimmer, and a very narrow cutting bit like 3-4mm, and rout mine down carefully to the correct depth, pretty much freehand the circle carefully, this means I do not breach the bottom layers of glass at all and depending on base thickness there is sometimes 0.3-0.4mm of plastic base left there too. I never use the countersink its def not the right shape hole which makes a difference for a number of reasons, less watertight, less bearing area for the bolthead, looks ugly!

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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 8:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 3:39 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
richie wrote:
I set my router up, actually its a baby laminate trimmer, and a very narrow cutting bit like 3-4mm, and rout mine down carefully to the correct depth, pretty much freehand the circle carefully, this means I do not breach the bottom layers of glass at all and depending on base thickness there is sometimes 0.3-0.4mm of plastic base left there too. I never use the countersink its def not the right shape hole which makes a difference for a number of reasons, less watertight, less bearing area for the bolthead, looks ugly!


Nice. I found on my board that the screws were sunk so the head is a tad below the base. I prefer it, but since it's down to the wood I have this concern about water getting in there and affecting it over time. I'm going to wait until my k-clips arrive and set the screws with some epoxy. I'd do it now, but I want the clips bolted down to tighten the screw head to the board will the glues are setting.

Also, the forstner bit can only take you so far. The edges of the bit are kinda goofy. I noticed at the store that the same size, type, and brand of bit looked different from another. Some of the edges were much higher than others and the angles were all different. Those high edges will get into your base before you get the center out too. Not exactly the best option.


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 Post subject: Re: The countersink on the base
PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2011 1:03 pm
Posts: 344
Location: Stockton, CA
Also end mill and counterbore bits


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