I just bught a brand new GNU Carbon Series 159cm 2011, with full banana rocker and magnetraction on sale, this is going to be my future splitboard! The flex is a 6.5 out of 10, quite soft but i rather ride soft boards. Since it is such a nice board i am going to be extremely careful when doing this, and therefore i need all the help i can get! Soo excited, i really think this is going to be a nice one
From what i have heard, full rocker is not the best choise for splitboards. But i can't live without the banana rocker when riding pow so i am willing to take that risk!
First of all, what kind of splitboard kit do i need? I have seen Voile split kit, and that seems to be the best choise, am i right? The boards core is made out of wood, from what i have read thats the best core when splitting your own board?
A feature about this board, is that it has not a steeledge on the nose or tail. That is going to be nice when i am cutting the board, but will it hold for the nose/tailclips? Do i still need to cut the last piece by hand, or can i run the circlesaw straight thru?
What kind of epoxy/p-tex is the best choise for me? Keep in mind that this is a verry flexy board, and i am the kind of rider that really bends my board hard when riding!
Do i use the same kind of material for filling the screw holes on the bottom, as i use on the cutted edges?
Just give me all your input to avoid stupid misstakes.
Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:32 am Posts: 507 Location: Rawesome, BC
I've got full on rocker between the feet on my Lib Tech Mullet. Not to many problems skinning established (icy) skin tracks with a little practice.
The DIY split kit is the one you're "supposed" to buy, but there are a lot of DIYers going for the Universal split kit. With my next split, I'll be going that route... or the Lightrail split kit and Karakorum clips and save a bit of cash. I don't need the slider tracks. With the latter two options, you'll need to pick up the appropriate t-nuts from a hardware store and the tip clips.
The lack of a fully wrapped steel edge has little impact on the tip clips holding in. They aren't that close to the edge. More to reduce swing weight than anything I'd imagine, it is Mervin after all. The trade off is durability, so don't aim for trees and rocks. I'd still cut the tip/tail by hand Circular saws are pretty violent by nature and the potential for delam/serious chipping just isn't worth the couple of minutes it takes to cut it and sand it by hand.
G/Flex-650 is the last epoxy resin you'll ever buy. Some people go for the Snoli ptex inserts over standard t-nuts to make the base look pretty. I did, but won't again. Skins pull the ptex off and the inserts spin easy. My board is a work in progress, every time ptex cap gets pulled off by a skin, I replace it with the G/Flex. Burly stuff.
For the sidewall, I put a couple of layers of varathane or something. Still there.
If your board is already a 6.5/10 on the stiffness scale, I might be worried that it will turn into a 4 or 5 after cutting. Just a thought. Full rockers as splits are fun. I have had a few BC days on a Sentury Sync and it did just fine.
sounds like a rad project, i split a 161.5 lib-tech travis rice which has a flex of 7 on the mevin scale i believe, and although it is a bit softer it is for sure not crazy soft. i went with the option of having the board split on a waterjet which turned out amazing, straight and it only took a kerf (material lost due to the cut) of 1/64" so the board basically did not get any narrower. for that all i did was find the center line of the board then the waterjet operator and i lined it up by hand and he drove it by hand to make the cut. one recommendation on the cut is to place tape under the center tap that goes across the board parallel to the sides of your bindings mounted where you want them, this helps with two things, placing your binding pucks for mounting them, and you can use these tape lines to line up the board halves to ensure they are perfectly aligned during drilling and mounting and whatnot. also when you mount the hardware; t-nuts, chinese hooks, and tip and tail clips, i sandblasted all of the parts on the sides that would not end up on the outside of the board and epoxied them into their respective holes to seal out moisture, add strength back to the board where holes had been drilled (especially important for the t-nut holes), and to prevent the hardware from spinning or coming lose in the core. for this i used west systems g-flex epoxy, which has proven to be very durable. for sealing the edges i used spar urethane and heat-gunned the exposed wood to warm it while brushing the urethane on to ensure good penetration into the wood. also if you buy a split kit from voile they include p-tex discs to fill the t-nut holes, and these are just meant to be epoxied into the holes, and so far with over 50 days on this board not one has pulled out or moved.