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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 9:27 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 9:55 am
Posts: 29
Location: SF Bay Area
Hi SliderForLife

The Voiles won't work on a solid board. For a similar feel, you'll need to find a set of Burton Raceplates or F2/Proflex Freecarve plates.

F2/Proflex
Image

Burtons
Image

I'm selling the F2s in the picture if you're interested (85 shipped).
The Burtons are readily available on eBay for about $125-150 new.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 10:05 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2005 11:55 pm
Posts: 87
Location: Seattle, WA
hardbooter,

would you rec riding the F2s on a split board, or would you use something different (bomber plates etc...)

i'm just trying to figure out this whole hardboot thing.

Scott


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 12:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 9:55 am
Posts: 29
Location: SF Bay Area
hey ssatler:

Voiles vs. F2s vs. Bombers

These are my opinions, others may have their own!!!

I've not used or seen the Voiles live, but reports are that they are very lightweight but have some durability issues. They also are the most economical option.

The F2s aren't all that easy to locate in the US. However, they are great in that they maintain most of the lateral flexibility of the Voiles but with better durability. You can pull the Toe/Heel blocks off the base plate and bolt them directly to the Voile sliders for a very clean and lightweight setup. Again, US availability isn't great, but you can often find used sets over on the Bomberonline classifieds. Alternatively, you can order from some Euro websites, but with shipping, the price approaches that of the Bombers.

The Bombers are bulletproof and really the only choice for high altitude mountaineering. All metal design means that they'll likely outlast your board, boots, and probably your knees as well. They will be noticably stiffer than both the Voiles and the F2s as the bails are thicker and there is no plastic to flex. You are more likely to need to customize some cants or toe/heel lifts due to the stiffness, but once you get dialed in, they can be as comfortable as the plastic options.

If you happen to be in the Tahoe area, I'd be happy to lend you either an F2 setup or Bombers or both. Also, if this will be your first foray into hardboots/plates, I'd highly recommend hooking up with a hardbooter at a resort to get some pointers before heading into the BC. There are a few technique changes that you'll need to make that are best practiced in a controlled environment. You're likely to find a helpful hardbooter close to you in the Bomberonline forums.

I'll try to post a picture of the F2s directly mounted to the Voile sliders so you can see this setup.

Enjoy!!!

Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2005 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 9:55 am
Posts: 29
Location: SF Bay Area
Here's a pic of the F2s next to the Bombers.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Voile Mountain Plate
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:13 am
Posts: 24
Is it possible to bolt the catek toe/heel blocks directly to voilè slider (as done with f2)?


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 Post subject: Re: Voile Mountain Plate
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:54 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am
Posts: 1519
Location: Colorado
Yes, I have Catek toe and heel pieces bolted directly to the the Voile slider plate. This will only work for boot sizes of about 10.5 and under, larger boots and the Voile plate is not long enough. The holes do not match up directly, so the mounting holes in the Voile plate will have to be opened up somewhat, this is best done slowly, with a round file.
My dealer (All Board Sports in Boulder, CO) was able to sell me just the Catek Toe and heel pieces. I actually mount them with cant wedges between the toe and heel piece and the Voile plate (I use Dynafit toe pieces on the board for tour mode).

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Never Summer Prospector 167X, furberg 173 DIY, Dynafit TLT5/6 Mountain , Phantom Bindings, BD Glidelite Skins
Quiver Killer inserts

http://protectourwinters.org/
http://14ersnowboardproject.homestead.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Voile Mountain Plate
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:49 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:13 am
Posts: 24
very interesting, can you post a pic?
I imagine that there aren't problems between catek's "boot size screws" and voilè's t-nuts..or have you used another type of screws?

do you know the weight of the pieces? lighter or heavier than bomber ones?


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 Post subject: Re: Voile Mountain Plate
PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 3:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am
Posts: 1519
Location: Colorado
Catek direct mount to Voile slider plate is definitely lighter than the Bomber setup, but a direct mount set up like this does not allow for easy adjustability to different boots. The Bomber setup uses an adjustable plate between the toe and heel pieces and the slider plate so the bindings can fit boots larger than 10.5, and so one can adjust the setup to different boots.
To direct mount the Catek toe and heel pieces to the slider plate one has to modify the existing holes in the slider plate to fit the Catek hole spacing, basically this means that you size the setup for one pair of boots, and then that binding is dedicated to that pair of boots.
No pics right now, too busy getting ready for the Crested Butte Classic.

_________________
Never Summer Prospector 167X, furberg 173 DIY, Dynafit TLT5/6 Mountain , Phantom Bindings, BD Glidelite Skins
Quiver Killer inserts

http://protectourwinters.org/
http://14ersnowboardproject.homestead.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Voile Mountain Plate
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 5:06 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:13 am
Posts: 24
thanks
I've 9.0 size boots, so I think it may be a cheaper and lighter solution rather than bomber
about the screws used?


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 Post subject: Re: Voile Mountain Plate
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am
Posts: 1519
Location: Colorado
The Cateks take M6 countersunk screws. I use special sizes to work with my cants, and I use titanium bolts to save a little weight. Racebolts.com, and redmist.com are good sources for titanium hardware in many sizes. Or use good quality stainless M6 bolts if the expense of titanium seems ridiculous (it is high). The standard blind nuts supplied with the slider plate work, but you may have to file them down a little to clear the pucks, as the bolt spacing is wider than the stock Voile spacing. I had to file a flat on my nuts to keep them from interfering with the pucks.

_________________
Never Summer Prospector 167X, furberg 173 DIY, Dynafit TLT5/6 Mountain , Phantom Bindings, BD Glidelite Skins
Quiver Killer inserts

http://protectourwinters.org/
http://14ersnowboardproject.homestead.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Voile Mountain Plate
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 2:55 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:13 am
Posts: 24
ok thanks
your set up seems great!

saturday I tried some experiments with an old pair of snowpro bindings but I think the distance between bails doesn't let my boot size...
Image


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