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I recently modified a burton race plate to the voile slider plate and thought I would post some pictures of the build for others. I know that this is a topic that has been out there for some time, but I didn't see many posts with pictures in older threads. I want to thank Barrows for all his help and assistance.

I started by measuring the placement of the bindings, marking their position, and then drilling out two holes (on the right side of the picture) and filing two existing holes (left of picture). The voile slider plate is very soft aluminum and easy to drill and file. I have a pair of Mondo 28 boots for this setup.



At the suggestion of Barrows, I placed a 2.5 degree inward cant underneath all the burton race plates before attaching them to the voile slider plate. The cant can be purchased at Tognar.com in varying angles.

Cant view side


Cant view from above


Next I attached the buton plate to the voile slider plate, using the bolt that came with the burton plate and a "t-nut" from the voile slider plate. Amazingly, they fit each other perfectly.



Barrows also suggested I consider raising the heel of my back foot a few millimeters. I used a piece of wood finished with epoxy.

Heel lift


Burton race plate and voile slider plate


The bolts under the slider plate were too long so I used a hack saw and file to cut them flush.



They were flush after filing.


Lucky Trails!

Nicely done!!!

Nice work! Thanks for the documenting this.

It looks like a close fit with a size 28 shell in regards to the length of the slider.

How much does it weigh?

Great job - Nuclear Grade work. Nice creative tooling choice. End result looks good - you have to let us know how it works.

Here are weights of my kit:

Pair of burton race plate mod binders....= 2 lbs 4.4 oz (1.032 kg)

Pair of TLT5 Mountain boots................= 5 lbs 11.5 oz (2.594 kg)

166 Voile Mojo with Dynafit toe pieces (2) and spark dynafit adapters (2) = 9 lbs 8 oz (4.309 kg)

Voile SD tractor skins (approx.) .........................= 1 lb 4 oz (0.567 kg)

Weight on the descent.............................= 17 lbs 7.9 oz (7.938 kg)

Weight on the up with skins..................................= 16 lbs 7.5 oz (7.470 kg)

I save even more weight by direct mounting the Dynafit toes with ski screws, no Spark adapters needed, then use Black Diamond split skins and save another half pound.

Do you think the slider plate would be long enough for a size 29 TLT5?
I fit my 29 Megarides in the original Raceplate base plate and compared the length from toe to heel to the length of the sliders. It seems just a tad to long for the bails to stay locked between the slider and toe/heel plate. However, the Garmont's sole length seems around 8mm longer than the TLT5, which is 317mm. I haven't bought the boots yet (but tried them on to confirm the size) and don't really want to start drilling holes in the slider unless I feel it could work. The size 28 TLT5 sole length is 307mm. Do you think the slider could accommodate another 10mm without the bottom of the bails hanging over too much to be safe?

Maybe these longer plates would work for you
http://wildschnee.de/index.php/tipps/xxlslider

Crooked Thumbs,

I think the race plate mod could work for size 29 TLT5.

In the TLT5 thread Barrows said,"Yeah, the mounting holes do not line up, so the holes in the slider plate have to be filed, or in some cases, new holes drilled to fit the Raceplate toe and heel pieces. Also note that the slider plate is only long enough to accommodate boot sizes up to about 28.5/29 with a direct mount."

I guess you won't know till you try it. Let us know how it works out.

The other day I was checking out the website for the Berkshire East ski resort. I saw the following page for pure boarding
http://www.berkshireeast.com/pureboard
I noticed the binding they were using was called the Speed CC. It sounded alot like the Ibex Speed TC a copy of the original Burton Race Plates. I contacted the company about the similarity and received the following response.

"its all still made at the same factory as the burton binding , it is the old burton binding , we just made colors and the bails are heattreatet so they last a lot longer . yes its the same produkt as bomber has"

Carve Company http://www.carvecompany.com

You can buy the following parts individually
Speed CC toe and heal bails 69.00 euro
Speed CC Aluminum Toeplate 14.00 euro
Speed CC Aluminum Heelplate 14.00 euro
Speed CC Set of screws 5,00 euro

They also have different colors black, red, orange for the bails and plates.

The guy that stocks their stuff in the US can be contacted here.
Ray Pesho <snbdcarver@yahoo.com>

Even after the conversion that is less new than I paid for my used burton plates I used for my current race plate mod which is working pretty good so far..

I mostly followed the directions from Sog-Nar and Barrows

So far I have used tognar to purchase the 2.5 degree cants

I made the rear heal lift from the following, I think it mat be the same material Barrows used.
DragonPlate Carbon Fiber Birch Core ~ 5/32" x 6" x 6

I am looking at switching to titanium bolts, I think these may work. http://www.jerseycycles.com/Product-Pages/Titanium.html 6mm Titanium Countersunk Bolts

If you are reading this Barrows mind telling where you got yours from?

First time building bindings myself, so use information above at your own risk

I know of two good sources for various titanium hardware:

racebolts.com

redmist.com

Sog-nar and Barrows:

How thick is the heel lift (or Toe Lift)?



I finally scored a pair Burton Race plates from eBay at a reasonable price.

It is custom, and so is up to you. Whether or not you want to use any lifts or cants is completely your choice, and will depend on your boot set up, how you run your stance, and your style. Personally I run Stance widths from 21.25"-21.75" or so, and angles around 27 degrees in front and 9-12 degrees in back. With that set up and my boots I prefer 2.5 degree cants on both bindings, and just a very slight (around 2.5 mm) heel lift under the rear foot heel piece-this just brings my rear knee where I want it to be when I am in a neutral position (not pressing on my boots in any direction). But what might work best for you is something you need to determine yourself-I would start with no lifts, and just a little cant, and then adjust from there to suit your set up and riding style.