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 Post subject: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:27 pm 
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Location: Colorado
I know a few of you out there are using the Dynafit TLT5 Mountain. Any suggestions for crampons?

Mountain Gear has some on sale. Leaning towards the Sabretooth.

BD Sabretooth
http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore/Ge ... 217484.htm
* Anti-balling Plates: yes
* Country of Origin: USA
* Material: Stainless Steel
* Weight: 970 g
* Boot Size Range: 36-46

And Petzl M10
http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore/Ge ... 17467P.htm
* Anti-balling Plates: no
* Weight: 2 x 525 g
* Country of Origin: France
* Material: Steel
* Boot Size Range: 35 - 45


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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 7:14 pm 
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Location: Colorado
I prefer full 12 point 'pons. Black Diamond's latest are nice with their stainless steel construction. The Sabretooth is a little more technical than needed for Splitboard Mountaineering, it can handle full on vertical waterfall climbing and pretty hard mixed climbing as well. I am using the lighter BD model, but still a full 12 point crampon and stainless (I think it is called the Neve?) and it is totally bomber.
The Petzl Vasak is also a really nice 12 pointer, capable of climbing anything a snowboard mountaineer will encounter. More technically oriented crampons are not as light, or as versatile as the more general mountaineering style ones, and good technique can easily get one up even vertical ice with a general mountaineering crampon, especially on a good plastic boot like the TLT5.

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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:06 pm 
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i would avoid the stainless option...known failure issues:

one example/discussion here: Dane's blog, more discussion on cc.com

i have one partner with older sabertooths. he has used them on some of our trips over the past 4 years. this year he is switching over to grivel. after having multiple problems with snow balling on different trips where my G12s had no issue he is switching camps.

since you are rocking hard boots, you might check out the Grivel Haute Route if you wanna shave some weight.

cheers

EDIT - link fixed (my bad for multi-tasking :nononno: )

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165 Venture Divide, Spark Franken-Burner, LaSportiva Spantik
163W Jones Solution, Phantom Alphas, Dynafit TLT5


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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:23 pm 
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Location: Colorado
Chris, your link takes me to smartwool.com? how many problems are you aware of with BD stainless crampons? they have been available for few seasons now, and I have not heard of the failures you allude to?
the Haute Route is a ten pointer, personally, I prefer a full 12 point crampon, as the lack of points through the instep area feels really insecure to me, especially on frozen, sun cupped snow. I can make ten points work, but it takes extra energy to make sure my footwork is "perfect", with a good 12 point design I climb in much more secure and relaxed way. Here in Colorado most snowboard mountaineering routes end up including some easy mixed climbing, due to the dry conditions. I feel a full 12 point crampon is worth a little extra weight for the additional security. I stay away from aluminum models for the same reasons, rock work shreds them.
Any Russian titanium crampons out there?

The Black Diamond Serac is the 12 point crampon I prefer with the TLT5. But I would like to hear of any details on the possibility of failure! Thanks

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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 3:37 pm 
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Location: Fairhaven
Chris isn't making up the stories of issues with stainless crampons, there's a good thread at either CascadeClimbers or MountainProject about it and Dane's Coldthistle blog is a good spot for more crampon info too.

I don't know that I'd spread a blanket statement to stay away from stainless but I'd certainly educate myself on it some more before buying.

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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:18 pm 
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i fixed the link. totally agree with barrows on 12 points vs. 10.

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165 Venture Divide, Spark Franken-Burner, LaSportiva Spantik
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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 6:14 pm 
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Chris,

Thanks for fixing the link. I would be concerned if I was using the Seracs for a constant diet of ice/mixed climbing, at this point though, I am retired from ice and alpine climbing, with the exception of my snowboard mountaineering use. I do frequent gear inspections, and will certianly take special care inspecting the Seracs for cracks.
That said, it is still unclear exactly how many failures (%) we are really talking about here? It is hard to believe there are really more than a very scant few-it is hard to imagine folks like Colin Haley trusting his life to these whether he is "paid" to do so or not?
In any case, I find the BD Seracs excellent performers on the TLT5s.

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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:56 am 
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Yes, I agree that it probably isn't worth losing sleep over if one is only using them for booting up a firm coulie. My pons see a bit of everything, so this has been intriguing to follow. From what I have seen, it appears there have been a couple of observed failures. But it is definitely far from being an epidemic. One thing to consider though is that the pros typically update/replace their gear with far greater frequency than the recreational athlete, so any longevity issues are usually off their radar as is the associated replacement cost. Maybe the blanket statement to avoid the stainless option was cast with too broad a brush, but for me personally I will stick with steel from Grivel.

Barrows mention of regular gear inspection is a good one, that can often get overlooked. I personally give my gear a good inspection at the conclusion of a trip, that way I know that once its stored its ready for the next outing and any needed maintenance is completed before the item is stored. :drinks:

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165 Venture Divide, Spark Franken-Burner, LaSportiva Spantik
163W Jones Solution, Phantom Alphas, Dynafit TLT5


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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:20 pm 
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So I got some BD stainless Sabretooths for christmas. The fit was no good. Toe bail didn't fit into the welt at all, and the heel of the boot was too narrow so there was a good bit of side to side slop. I also tried the camp nanotech xlc, which fit better than the BD, but not that good.

The winner is the Grivel G12. Near perfect fit on the toe, with minimal room on the heel for side to side. I may pinch them in slightly, but the boots don't move when secured tightly.

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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 12:05 am 
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camp 390 xlc so fucking light and fit perfect. if you are walking on rocks/mix climbing maybe not so great. for normal ski mountaineering they rule.

http://www.backcountry.com/camp-usa-xlc-390-crampon

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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:57 am 
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There is no question that the Camp aluminum crampons are light, but I would hesitate to make a blanket recommendation for them. I had a pair, and found them to offer very insecure climbing performance on steep frozen snow, as the points are quite a bit shorter than those on full function steel crampons. This became a problem, especially if one was climbing frozen snow with suncups, often the points were just not long enough to offer secure purchase. Yes, I could certainly get up everything with these crampons, but I found I had to expend extra effort in being really precise with my footwork. I climb faster in a full size twelve point steel crampon, despite the extra weight. Around here, most climbs also include at the very least some rock scrambling (and sometimes ice as well), and aluminum crampons should not really be worn on rock and are not much good on ice either.
If one is going to be on softer snow, or very smooth frozen snow, then the aluminum crampons will be fine, but it is hard to know this in advance in a lot of places.

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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 1:12 am 
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Dang, HFT got some fine Grivel points...very nice! Like the looks of the fit.

Also agree with Barrows on the (usually) limited ideal usage of aluminum. Personally, I will remain a steel (non-stainless) consumer. Climb On :!:

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165 Venture Divide, Spark Franken-Burner, LaSportiva Spantik
163W Jones Solution, Phantom Alphas, Dynafit TLT5


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 Post subject: Re: Crampons for Dynafit TLT5 Mountain
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:31 pm 
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Location: Wasatch
barrows wrote:
There is no question that the Camp aluminum crampons are light, but I would hesitate to make a blanket recommendation for them. I had a pair, and found them to offer very insecure climbing performance on steep frozen snow, as the points are quite a bit shorter than those on full function steel crampons. This became a problem, especially if one was climbing frozen snow with suncups, often the points were just not long enough to offer secure purchase. Yes, I could certainly get up everything with these crampons, but I found I had to expend extra effort in being really precise with my footwork. I climb faster in a full size twelve point steel crampon, despite the extra weight. Around here, most climbs also include at the very least some rock scrambling (and sometimes ice as well), and aluminum crampons should not really be worn on rock and are not much good on ice either.
If one is going to be on softer snow, or very smooth frozen snow, then the aluminum crampons will be fine, but it is hard to know this in advance in a lot of places.



I live in the wasatch we don't have real mountains :wink:

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