Forums Splitboards Voile Voile Mojo RX 2010-2011 Review….
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    947 Posts

    So a couple weeks ago Voile sent some Mojo RX boards to the Kalifornia Eastside Splitfest for Demo purposes and I didn’t get a chance to sample the wares…..Tex had extremely positive things to say about it (and the lightrail bindings he used that day) and it piqued my interest.

    The following weekend the 161 version of that board produced my nomination for best TR of the year: (see BCDs TR on Goeth and Darwin)…

    Then last weekend (the 1st and 2nd) I was lucky enough to finally get my hands on that board (the 161) and ride some big boy lines with some big boy riders…’s my review:

    First impressions: I liked the graphics far better than the in the past, and I’ve ridden 2 different Mojo models and the bright orange Split Decision prior to that. I don’t care too much for form though and if the function was right, I’d gladly ride a poop brown deck (oh wait…I did!).

    Weight, I didn’t throw it on a scale, but one of the things I appreciated in past versions of the Mojo was the fact that the cap construction didn’t weight as much as it’s non-capped counterparts. The RX did not dissappoint as it seemed to weight even less then past versions, but with one noticeable difference:

    Durability: The topsheet of those older Mojo boards tended to be very fragile. The top sheet of the RX, while still prone to wear where the skis rub together occasionally in touring mode (what board isn’t?), was much more durable and even repelled an occasional mistep with Mr. Chomps without noticeable damage. The base also repelled some occasional surprise rocks and 2 days of some fairly serious touring and riding yielded not so much as a single core-shot.

    Skinning: While I’ve never ridden a rockered board before, I found the difference in skinning between the new RX (rockered nose, cambered underfoot) and the old Mojos to be night and day. I’ve no doubt you could blame my skinning technique for this fault, but I’ve found that with the traditional camber of the old Mojos, combined with my skinning technique and lack of girth (I’m 5’9″ and weight 142 right now), the skins, while on icy/steep tracks, would occasionally disengage from the snow underfoot ever so slightly while I shifted weight from one ski to the other. Again, I’ve no doubt technique is one reason why this would happen from time to time, but the fact is that the camber of the board definitely contributed to this phenomenon. The result at times meant backsliding in the skin track…and I personally hate that more than any other thing about touring.

    Due to the rockered tip and tail, the camber of the mojo RX underfoot rarely if ever disengaged the skin surface from the snow resulting in far more efficient skinning and far fewer instances of the dreaded backslide even in firm/icy Sierra spring conditions. This result alone would have sold me on the board, but I decided to go ahead and descend on it too :thumpsup:

    Riding: As previously stated, I’ve never ridden a board with anything but traditional camber. While I fully believe that in powder conditions, a fully rockered out board like the Venture Storm-R would be excellent both skinning and riding, I always wondered how it would perform in “variable” conditions on the steeps. The RX did not dissappoint. The tapered tail made edge to edge transitions in turns merely an extension of my conciousness, and the stiffness, while not over the top as seems to be the trend with some boards, was such that I had lots of confidence in high speed turns on the steeps. The rockered nose absorbed the bumps and blasted the powder (yes we found some powder too :rock: ) far better than I would have imagined, and truthfully I rode better on this board than any other board I’ve ever ridden, solid or split…which made me a happy camper after missing 2 1/2 months of this season with a broken leg.

    I can’t give ALL the credit for my improved riding to the RX (since I had some pretty damn good riders giving me a few pointers) but I can say I rode steep lines with more control and confidence than ever before. So instruction and technology fused together (lol…yes….I was riding Fuse bindings!) to provide me a truly stoked experience.

    So do I have any constructive criticisms of the Mojo RX?

    Well, you’ll have to hit me up after I’ve ridden it for a full season…since I FULLY intend to purchase this stick and ride it in ALL conditions next season.

    Voile really stepped up it’s game with this board IMHO…and NO! I don’t work for Voile! I’m just your average weekend warrior still looking for the perfect setup (weighs nothing, handles boilerplate and powder equally as well, stiff enough to G-turn, and snappy enough for responsive tight no-fall turns…and telepathically transports itself back to the car when I have to dry hike back out to the TH), this board is not that…but it’ll do in the interim. 🙂

    Thanks Voile and Dave for lending us your demos to try out in the Range of Light.

    689 Posts

    Great review Jbaysurfer!! Rocker is pretty freaken cool, isn’t it!? I’d love to try this board out, as I own a 161 cambered Mojo. When I rode rockered boards, I decided there was no going back…

    Super glad to see Voile stepping it up! There’s some stiff competition out there!

    947 Posts

    ^ yep…I like the hybrid anyway! I’ve still not ridden a fully rockered board, but in powder it’s hard to imagine it can be anything but awesome!

    43 Posts

    I took my new 166 Rx out for a couple backcountry laps yesterday around Silver Peak and was super stoked on the board’s performance. I was previously on a very old Voile fence post, and the lightness of the new RX in touring and riding mode was very noticeable. The rockered nose and tapered tail also made for some great quick turns in a steep little chute we found, and it cut through the little pockets of sun crust we rode on the way back to the car. Overall it performed exactly as I hoped it would — nimble from edge to edge and stable on a few wind-lip landings. I’m excited to be riding this board this season, and I’m pretty sure I will be even more stoked when I have to put it on my back and bootpack with it. My last board was a tank. Thanks Jbay for the early review on the board. That definitely factored into my decision to buy it, and I am happy I did.


    I got my Mojo Rx with the light rail binding the other day, and I am amazed about how light it is, it weighs about the same with bindings as my T-Rice 164,5 with bindings! Looking forward to try the board out

    22 Posts

    I’ll add my two cents in this topic… Got a new Mojo rx 2011-2012 with the light-rails about a month ago, but did not dare taking it in the early season before today, due to past unstable layers followed by a weather without snow-falls for about 15 days in a row on the Sea-to-Sky area close to Vancouver…

    Although it did not snow much at all recently and the snow was everything but perfect, I went today for a first tour this season with some friends, past the flute Bowl in Whistler, for a very mellow day.

    Well what I can say is, that I am very please with the way the Mojo rx reacts. super easy to turn, floats without any effort and is really enjoyable to ride on any kind of snow, even crust with soft snow under. The groomers were full of chunks and death cookies, but even riding there to access to the musical bumps area, and to come back to the car, I felt safe riding it. I did not push the board to its limits, far from that, ( also recovering from an injury right now.. my physio would not be impressed haha). but it seems to be a very easy board to get used to, and that holds well on very different types of snow. Can’t wait to be 100% and do some more interesting lines!

    1 Posts

    I suppose I’ll add my own assessment here as well. Got a Mojo RX 166 for this season. I’ve been on it 6 days so far this season (too busy for more this year, sadly) and spent 2 days on my resort board, which is a stiff all-mountain Solomon that I still have a love affair with. As far as touring goes with the Voile, I have been extremely happy with the decision to get it, although I have to say that the skins that came with the package deal are crap. They seem to have half of the glue of my four-year-old black diamond climbing skins (for randonee) and barely stuck on the first run out. I spent that whole weekend disappointed at how much trouble it was to keep the skins on (needed two Voile straps on each half of the board). Since then I have invested in the Spark R+D tail clips, which I now consider a MUST. With that addition the package finally feels complete and I’ve had no more skinning problems.

    I agree with everyone else’s sentiments that the board is very light and great for touring. The light rail bindings I also feel are pretty good. I’ve been satisfied with them so far. I had heard some rumblings about the single pull system for quicker releases and skepticism that they might pull out if snagged. I suppose that is possible, but I have yet to experience any problems and, if anything, it made getting out of the bindings VERY quick when I found myself covered up to the knees in powder at my transition points.

    As far as the riding goes, the board is outstanding in the powder. It floats nicely and it seems that I can make the board sink as deep or shallow as I want in the snow. I love it. However, I did a few runs with it in bounds, on the piste just to check it out. It felt odd going from powder on to the piste for me. It is my first splitboard, so I do not know how it compares in stiffness to other splits, but I was acutely aware of the lack of torsional stiffness the first time I tried to throw it up on edge. I kind of expected that; the board is split in half after all. But, if you want an honest assessment, it does not ride on piste like a solid all-mountain board. That’s okay though; I’m not complaining. From now on, if I’m in bounds on a light powder day or non-powder day, I’ll stick with my Solomon. If it’s deep in bounds or if I’m out of bounds, I’ll be sure to be on the Voile.

    22 Posts

    your skins did not glue well?? that’s funny…

    I have also bought the package (from, and after having already had 12 days on my Mojo rx this season, the skins are glueing super strong. They glue to the point of being really hard to dispatch when I want to unfold them If I fold them without the skin saver…

    Just add some glues, Voile Climbing Skins are legit and are not supposed to fall apart or to be glue-less.

    Concerning how your board reacts on hard pack, I also had the impression that the board had a lil bit of lack of torsional stiffness the first time I went touring from Whistler, while the snow on the resort was absolute ice with bombproof deathcookies everywhere on the slopes, but if you learn to ride it without being too aggressive on it on the resort it rides totally fine even while carving or buttering at high speed. You just cannot charge as much as you would with a resort board but is it the point of a split to charge on groomers?

    147 Posts


    Do any of you know how it rides switch?
    I tried the board but I didn’t ride any switch.

    I really like to do 180s so landing switch is a must 😉

    830 Posts

    No go. It’s one of the downsides to the mojo. Buttars are a go but the boards stiffness kills the style points. It’s actually something I contacted Dave about last year. My suggestion to him was to go with a directional twin, with a little less taper. Mainly because, while probably the only switch trick I’ll be doing is maybe a half cab off a cornice into my line or something the fact is when exiting certain lines theres times where you half to zig, zag back and forth between tight obstacles. I found the tail to dig when doing this and felt a directional twin would enhance the overall versatility of the board. Looks like they listened based on the new shape they came out with.

    37 Posts

    I have the rx 161 and it has seen ice and corn in NZ, plenty of powder in Kashmir and is now being tested in Norway. 2 problems though:

    1. A space between the chinese hooks, I have re set the binding pucks and there is a few mm gap between the tip side chinese hooks.

    2. The tip clip is completely worn out, which I believe is from all the chatter or nz ice. A temporary solution, last maybe 4-5 days, is adding petex and shaving off to give the tip clip a tighter fit. Very annoying problem though. I don’t know how other tip clips perform but the voile plastic tip clips is a problem for a few people I know.

    Other then that the board rides great in all conditions and is super light, especially with the spark blaze and lt pins.

    If anyone knows how to fix my chinese hook problem please let me know!


    474 Posts

    Bumping this thread.

    I picked up this board barely used from a friend in the off-season, and have gotten to ride it finally for the last 6 weeks (there was no real snow in Cali fornia until March and I’d been injured all early winter anyways).

    I have really mixed feelings about this board. So much so that I’m considering buying a Prior Backcountry from REI – good deal right now and a return guarantee. The improvements I’d be hoping for in the Prior are higher tail height (and maybe tip height?), a touch more camber, better durability, and less snow sticking to the topsheet. The only losses I see are that the Backcountry has way less taper and is a slight touch heavier (not counting the carbon version). Please feel free to call me out on any of these things, as I want the feedback.

    I’ve ridden the board about 4 days in the resort (Kirkwood) and about 10 days in the BC. Resort conditions were packed powder, deep blower, heavy pow, and groomed runs. BC conditions were consolidated powder, edgeable chalk, wet powder, and mank. I haven’t had a chance to ride it in corn yet, but anything can ride well in wet corn. Bindings were Spark Burners w/ Malamutes (also have mixed feelings about the binders).

    What I love about this board:
    1) Super light. Love it. I have a DIY Burton Supermodel split I thought was light (no inside edges), but this thing is really insanely light. I even took it on a 19 mile overnight tour.

    2) Great stiffness and stability for the weight. Rides stable as hell with no chatter or inconsistent flexing. I dropped Once is Enough at Kirkwood in this board and rode out the apron doing 40 mph like a champ. Dropped some 10-12 footers into packed snow and held on fine. Holds windpacked chalk without odd flexing.

    3) Really fast turn initiation – not so much edge to edge, but more like swivel to swivel due to the rocker and very minimal camber.

    4) Feels great in blower. Was ripping through some awesome snow and the board allowed me to shape different types of turns.

    What I don’t like about this board:
    1) I don’t think this board was made for wet west coast cement snow. The tip can get really sucked in when riding wet mank on edge. It’s weird because I don’t know if it’s better or worse than my other split, but it unexpectedly pulls very quickly into the turn and dives rather than slices when riding on edge in wet snow! It seems like even though it has the early rise tip, the overall amount of turn-up is not much more than a traditional tip??? It was a really weird feeling.

    2) It feels slower on wet flattish exits than a more cambered shape.

    3) Barely any tail turn-up means that “backing off” of something really is hard, especially in heavy heavy snow. Maybe it’s because I’m a kook, but sometimes when I’m trying to find the best ramp off of a cliff band or something I’ll falling leaf on toeside to get the right setup so I can drop in and point it out. Or if I pull off to a safe area to pull out my camera, I sometimes traverse switch to get to the angle I want. On this board, I struggle to do this because the tail just sinks into the snow when I’m slipping/traversing switch, especially in heavy snow.

    4) I could not carve for beans on a groomed run. The edge was plenty stiff to hold, but the shape and flex pattern made riding up on edge really tricky. Yeah, we don’t ride that kind of snow in the BC. But it means that on just-starting-to-transition corn on really steep slopes, I’m kind of worried about how my edge control will feel when trying to slice and jump from edge to edge.

    5) It could definitely be more durable. I hit some volcanic red rock snowsharks over the weekend, and the base is just worked. Massive 4″ core shot, lots of deep scraping, etc. I’ve seen Prior and NS split-riders ride through similar rocks with barely a scratch. I’ve ridden all my other boards on those exact same rocks at bigger impact speeds and the shots have been much smaller and shallower. The topsheet also looks pretty worn considering the board has only been used about 15-20 days.

    More info, I weigh 130 soakin wet, carry about 15 lbs in the pack between camera/safety gear/food/water, riding a Mojo RX 161. Size feels right. Other splitboard is a 159 Burton 2008 Supermodel – the faux wood graphics. Best things about that board are how narrow the waist width was once I split it, and the just-right amount of taper to ride in pow or corn. Worst thing about that board is that there is no way I would point a 100 foot 45 degree straightline on it like I did on the MojoRX.

    947 Posts

    I’ve got about 100 days on mine. Mostly in the BC but as many of you know I do a lot of lift accessed stuff too, so I’ve ridden in bounds a fair amount.

    Some of the issues brought up are not unique to the Mojo RX. Tip clip issues are about the interface, not the board. Space between the board halves is inevitable in every split that I’ve ever owned.

    I think the board is durable as hell, though the base is not as durable as other boards I’ve ridden, and I just get used to the idea that the topsheet is going to get nicked up. That’s part of the deal with cap construction.

    Shralph, I don’t know what kind of rocks you were riding over, but don’t ride over them anymore. 😉

    I don’t understand the tip rise issue whatsoever. The boards ability to float starting with the rockered nose is the biggest and most notable ride improvement I could come up with. I rode my Jones solution in pow/porn this weekend, and it also was tricky to lay on an edge in porn snow without diving. So I don’t think it has anything to do with the nose rise. I always ride setback in my stance though..and as it’s a tapered, directional board, I’d recommend that rather then centering like your on a jibber. If you want to jib and spin, something flexible and forgiving with a bidirectional shape is probably a better fit.

    If I were talking to the engineers right now, I’d tell them that the base on Voile boards has always been softer then other boards I’ve ridden, and the topsheets always get more knicked up then other boards I’ve ridden…but in terms of shape, I’d ask them to decrease the taper and increase the sidecut. Those two things as they currently are, make the board twitchy at high speeds and in soft corn/porn. The flip side of this is that when you’re in a tight, steep line, this board can and will turn on a dime and pick up the change for you.

    All in all, I’ve owned every iteration of Voile splitboards at one time or another, and this one is light years ahead of any of the others…though obviously, there is room for more improvement. I have had many many happy days on my mojo, and as it’s now my “rock” board, I’m sure I’ll have even more.

    Glad to see my original review is getting some mileage. More then anything else, I don’t hold this board out to be the greatest board you’ll ever ride (although some may find it to be so..) but I do hold it out to be a massive improvement on the older models I’ve owned.

    It’s fun to nitpick this stuff, but in the end, it’s not about the board…it’s about the rider. Those fat dudes on $5000 tri bikes that you see at triathalons still haven’t figured this out.

    1667 Posts

    get the prior schralp. but get the carbon one.

    474 Posts

    @jbaysurfer wrote:

    I think the board is durable as hell, though the base is not as durable as other boards I’ve ridden, and I just get used to the idea that the topsheet is going to get nicked up …

    Shralph, I don’t know what kind of rocks you were riding over, but don’t ride over them anymore. 😉

    I don’t understand the tip rise issue whatsoever … Jones solution in pow/porn this weekend, and it also was tricky to lay on an edge in porn snow without diving…

    I always ride setback in my stance though..and as it’s a tapered, directional board, I’d recommend that rather then centering like your on a jibber…

    I’d ask them to decrease the taper and increase the sidecut.

    Thanks J for the comments …

    You’re right -the topsheet durability complaint is more superficial than anything, since I haven’t put actual cracks into the topsheet or snapped my core (which I have done with 3 other boards). But still, I’m telling you, I’ve landed other boards on these kinds of rocks from 15 foot airs and had much less damage.

    I’m talking Kirkwood/Carson Pass rocks, the red and orange, high-iron volcanic stuff that eats your base but crumbles before it compresses or cracks your edge – opposite of Tahoe basin granite. We didn’t have Sierra paste from our last storm to cover up the takeoffs and snowsharks, just 2+ feet of blower pow, and you know the deal with fun lines – they go between big rocks, where other rocks might be hiding.

    As far as the tip thing – the tip definitely floats and swivels super fast and doesn’t fold under a massive load. It just drives really weird if you try to ride it in almost pea soup with the edge laid over way up. I know it’s not the best manner by which to ride mank. It’s just that the board starts drifting into the turn and over the snow to where you think you can lay it over, and when you do, the rockered/tapered tip pulls you way tighter into the turn than you thought you would go. It’s actually not the tip itself diving, but the entire board pulling into the turn and then sinking the entire tapered shovel because it’s laid up on edge instead of floating. Maybe the only reason I’ve not had this experience before is that my other splits were way more narrow and much less tapered, and I had to backseat them so much and keep the nose of the board so disengaged in this kind of snow that the widest part of the nose never had the chance to pull the board through a turn? Does that make sense? That by adding so much taper and rocker you are able to engage more of the tip in this kind of snow than with conventional geometries?

    I’m definitely setback btw – in the middle of the pattern on the front foot and a touch back on the back foot – so not ahead of the recommended setback pattern.

    Anyways, by reducing taper and increasing sidecut, and raising the tail height, you’re much closer to the geometry of …

    @powderjunkie wrote:

    get the prior schralp. but get the carbon one.

    Thanks D … but … man … I’m not sure I want to throw down for the carbon, especially when the regular isn’t much heavier than the Mojo and it’s sooo much less $$$. I’ve ridden all carbon skis like the Lhasa Pow though, so I definitely know how much more lively a carbon board will be.

    Anyways, this also isn’t about nitpicking, as much as it sounds that way. The RX is a righteously fun and capable board in certain conditions. I’m just not sure it’s as suited to my riding style and heavy coastal wet snow as another board might be.

    947 Posts

    ^ I don’t see it as nitpicking’s a review…it’s whole purpose is constructive criticism.

    I do think that “dig” in the mank issue is related directly to the sidecut and taper, and I do think the base is softer then most boards I’ve ridden, so I tend to agree with much of your critique. I was joking about the rocks…when it’s low tide like this year, we all hit em.

    PJ just likes bling. I’ll buy the prior carbon when it comes with titanium edges all the way around. 😉

    474 Posts

    @schralphmacchio wrote:

    [the topsheet durability complaint is more superficial than anything, since I haven’t put actual cracks into the topsheet or snapped my core (which I have done with 3 other boards)

    Well, I spoke too damn early.

    2 compressed edges from where I hit rock when I was doing a heelside slash in pow on thin snow with hiding rocks on the finish of my turn (I shoulda known better). The cap is even starting to delam on one of those edge compressions.

    My fault for hitting those rocks, not the boards. I won’t speculate as to how other boards would have performed under an impact like that, because every hit is different. I’m just sad that what I thought was going to be a half-bottle-of-IPA Ptex iron session is now a professional shop operation and a whole lot more beer.

    Aaargh, now I have to find a local shop good enough to deal with the surgical operation to get this thing so that the core doesn’t rot out …

    Ordering that Prior BC is starting to feel a whole lot less like an impulse buy, so I have something to ride to finish out the season. I was also staring at the UHMW sidewalls with fat topsheet, while fondling that much denser sintered base on that thing. Definitely a lot more burly looking than the MojoRX, hopefully it lives up to expectation.

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