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  • #568835
    1420 Posts

    Here’s some beta/pics for the folks heading up to Tioga this weekend. These pics are from last Thurs-Sun when we were at TPR. Note that it snowed every day we were there, so we had somewhat winterish conditions. Things will be a lot more springlike by this weekend, with the lower stuff more melted out than in these pics…

    Dana Plateau. Burnt on the lower 1500 ft or so. Upper chutes might be doable but you’re hiking out. 3rd Pillar has a large chockstone in the choke.

    Powerhouse. Burnt down low. Upper part maybe OK but damn bony past the main chute. Main drainage has a full-width icefall in the red circle.

    Ellery bowl was pretty bony but you can connect the dots to get down. Didn’t get a good look at the bowl entrance. Chute Out doesn’t go at the top (exposed rocks and ice). Poop Chute (furthest lookers right chute into Ellery) was good Thurs/Sat; probably the only decent chute off Ellery.

    Chute Out

    Poop Chute

    Kinda hard to tell but chute entrance is just right of center, to the left of the big rock face.

    Gaylor was reportedly decent

    Conness and North Peak looking good from this side. I’d be careful about North Peak chute – other chutes that typically become ice climbs later in the season (like Dana couloir) are already icy, or never got enough snow.

    From Glacier Canyon near Mt. Dana. L to R: Gaylor, False White, Conness, North Peak, Lundy backside.

    Glacier Canyon approach to Dana couloir. It was plenty bony even after just getting snow, and we were barely able to get through on skins. I think it would be a lot of hiking by this weekend.

    Crossing Dana Lake, one of the few places with decent skinning below the cirque. Dana couloir visible in upper right. Below the couloir, there was about of foot of fresh on a nice base. Once into the couloir proper, we found a few inches of fresh on top of solid ice, all the way across.

    Solstice couloir. Some exposed rocks up top; cornice not looking as big as usual. Hard to say whether conditions might be similar to Dana couloir (i.e. icy). They both *looked* similar and we figured Dana would be good.

    If I were going up there this weekend, I’d check out False White or Conness.

    P.S. Just called the Mo-mart and they open for the season tomorrow morning! 🙂

    2068 Posts

    Thanks for the beta, Jim. Good stuff.

    I know this is a loaded question but I need some info before my discussion with my wife tonight about my NEED to get out this weekend, how long will it be decent up there? From the looks of this only a couple more weeks.

    98 Posts

    Is 3 days what you want to hear?

    You can tell her that as of yesterday, the sonora pass snow course snowpack is 28% of average.

    1514 Posts

    At the very least, you can bet that this weekend will be better than any future weekend this year. So if you are going to take a weekend, this is the best one to take.

    I wish I could get another weekend. 🙁 But I can take comfort in the fact that I got lots of time already. The lawn is now knee high (not kidding) and I either have to mow it or park my car on it. (On cinderblocks, of course.)

    Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968.

    35 Posts

    Jim, Sanfrantastico. Thanks again for the great Beta pics!!!

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