Forums The Gear Room Snowboard Boot Crampon/Ice Axe
Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #781482
    Rider11
    24 Posts

    Hey everyone, Spring has sprung. I know this has been asked and covered a few times over the years but as make and models change wanted to see if I can seek some quick advice on buying some new crampons and ice axe(s). I currently ride Burton Driver X(2014) size 11.5 US/45 EU. I am 6’2″ and 200lbs. I am looking for basic mountaineering crampon that will stay secure on my boot, perform climbing 13ers/14ers in Colorado, 40-50 degree chutes, couliors, and faces. Something lightweight, pack-able but still has the performance needed to get to the top. I am looking for 2 ice axe as well for similar performance. I have BD compactor poles so not too interested in any sort of whippets.

    From what I always read it seems like the Grivel G10 Wide Crampons are the go to, recommended by others, and perform. Any other suggestions? Best places to buy online?

    Would something like a BD Raven ice axe do? What size is recommended for someone my height? I’ve used equipment like this before but don’t recall exact length as the gear was not mine. Any other accessories that I may need for the crampons or ice axes, like safety straps, would be much appreciated. Lastly, while I am writing all this….basic ski/snowboard mountaineer harness? Thank you!

    #781485
    schwalbster
    321 Posts

    I think you already got the right idea on most things there:

    Crampons: Yes Grivel G10 wide. What I have as well. Steel is durable but of course not lightweight.
    I was recently recommended Grivel-air-tech-light-crampon and that would be my personal choice if I needed new ones and was looking for lightweight. Of course in wide and classic for softboots.

    Axes, sure the BD Raven is the standard. I have the Raven Pro, just a little lighter. Then there is the ultra, even lighter. I would think 65cm is a good length for your purposes. I have the 60cm, I’m 5.9

    Make sure crampons have antibot plates. And straps for your axes.

    Black Diamond makes a nice basic ski/snowboard mountaineer harness that can be put on without having to put your legs through the loops (great when you are already wearing your crampons and/or in a place where balancing on one leg is not that great 😉 ): http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/couloir-harness-BD651039BORGS_M1.html packs very small and is light.

    I think that is a standard one that folks use. It’s on my list.

    After much research, experimentation and consideration, I have decided adulthood is not for me. Thank you for the opportunity.

    #781487
    HansGLudwig
    601 Posts

    ^ 2x on the couloir harness.

    For spring missions, I’d stick with steel crampons; and at size 11.5 feet, you might be looking at aftermarket, long bars. I bought CAMP USA universal Stalkers and they fit my 12.5 Deeluxe boots stock and came with anti-bott plates; BD and Grivel didn’t.

    If you’re rocking 2 axes (on 14ers no less), go for an adze on one and a hammer on the other for hammering in pitons (plus it’s one less sharp thing to worry about).
    I find 65 cm too short for glacier travel and too long for booting couloirs & riding (I’m 6’0″; but it’s really your ape index that matters not your overall height. YMMV). Consider rocking two lengths: 50-55 & 70-75?

    Perfectly adequate leashes can be fashioned up with a piece of tubular webbing and simple knotwork. I have the CAMP Alpina and it’s too much faff and bulk.

    Be sure to bookmark Splitboard.com's Recent Activity page...
    http://splitboard.com/activity-2/

    #781493
    mgco3
    50 Posts

    If you look for ice axes that also work well as whippets, take a look at the Petzl Sum Tec. I really like them, but didn’t climb whith both axes yet. Additionally I found a nice review in this forum: http://splitboard.com/talk/topic/review-petzl-sumtec-ice-axe/

    Amplid Milligram 163, Tour Operator 159 & LabCarbon 162, Phantom Alphas 14/15, Atomic Backland w/ Phantom LinkLevers
    https://mgco3.wordpress.com, https://www.instagram.com/conathanjumpman/

    #781494
    96avs01
    875 Posts

    Before the Couloir was offered by BD, one of the standard ski mountaineering harnesses was the DMM Super Couloir. I have one that was shipped over from the EU before they were available in the US. Absolutely love it.

    If you are truly planning to carry two axes I’d get a standard mountaineering axe with an adze (e.g., Raven, Raven Pro, Grivel Air Tech, etc.) and a second more technical axe with a hammer (e.g., Petzl SumTec, BD Venom, etc.).

    On my second pair of Grivel steel crampons, have 11 years on a pair of G12s and 3 years on a pair of G14s. I’ll personally never buy anything but Grivel steel, but obviously there are lighter options out there. While aluminum are an option, I’d be cautious depending on the rock type and any amount of mixed climbing you may find in your typical areas.

    165 Venture Divide/Spark Frankenburners/La Sportiva Spantiks
    163W Jones Solution/Phantom Alphas/Dynafit TLT5s
    162 Furberg

    Chris

    #781497
    Kahti Ryan
    48 Posts

    Best winter harness i’ve found is the DMM Super couloir. I don’t know if you can get them in the states but over here it’s pretty much the gold standard. Super comfy, packs down tiny, but still a decent number of gear loops if your actually climbing with a full rack.

    If you’re climbing terrain that actually requires 2 axes then you’re into proper tech tool territory (and usually past anything actually rideable!) Petzl Quarks are mint but Singing Rock just released pretty much a clone that can be had here for half the price (and half the price of any other tech axe!), again dunno about US availability. I picked up a pair as i’ve been doing more “real” climbing this winter and fed up of borrowing and renting, and had heard good things about them. Usually I think you get what you pay for but the bandits have been amazing so far, really no downside, the price comes from their Czech manufacturing and lack of brand recognition (although they’ve actually been making slings and harnesses for the big brands for years, and you’ll always see their stuff at activity centres). There’s a bunch of threads on UKClimbing regarding them.
    Though as I said the kinda routes you want these axes for, you aren’t likely to be riding back down. For an all around mountaineering axe the Grivel Air Tech is lovely, and fully T rated unlike many others.
    Get a clipper leash for whichever you choose though (and slider if not a tech axe). Leashless climbing is the way to go!

    #781799
    dishwasher-dave
    460 Posts

    All fine suggestions, just thought I would add some perspective from a weight weenie.

    Unless there is ice and a known rappel on my route, if I’m carrying my split and planning to ride down my ascent line, I’m grabbing aluminum 9 times out of 10 both for crampons and ice ax. The weight difference is massive and that translates into more fun and adventures and less sloggage.

    For ski/split mountaineering missions, I go with shorter axes since I’m not using them as a cane on the flats and low angle approaches (which is when the length is nice to save your back). If you need two ice axes to climb something it’s probably way beyond what most folks can ride down.

    #781837
    Incalescent
    225 Posts

    If you need two ice axes to climb something it’s probably way beyond what most folks can ride down.

    ^this.

    http://goldenincalescent.blogspot.com/

    #781917
    FloImSchnee
    291 Posts

    All fine suggestions, just thought I would add some perspective from a weight weenie.

    Unless there is ice and a known rappel on my route, if I’m carrying my split and planning to ride down my ascent line, I’m grabbing aluminum 9 times out of 10 both for crampons and ice ax. The weight difference is massive and that translates into more fun and adventures and less sloggage.

    Same here.

    Using either Austrialpin Aluminium Crampons or now more often Camp XLC 470.
    And as axe: K2 Shaxe or Edelrid Race.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.