Forums DIY and Mods Quiver killer/ Binding freedom inserts for a universal DIY
Viewing 11 posts - 21 through 31 (of 31 total)
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  • #646136
    Scooby2
    611 Posts

    I think you are really on to something there Chris, I reckon its the amount of surface area bonded with the inserts that is allowing such a strong hold, you could glass (or maybe a little kevlar fabric) them in on the deck as well for added strength, but would have to keep the contact area flat. with a couple of layers of glass or kevlar fabric, there is no reason why the insert shouldn’t be as strong as factory, the strength of the epoxy bonding the wood insert should be stronger than the wood core itself, and the composite over the top should be as strong as the original deck laminate if you use a heat cured toughened epoxy-probably not necessary.

    But if you know your stance, might as well use your own machined pucks and the original inserts plus a few ski screws- at least if they weren’t green 😉

    #646137
    burton
    329 Posts

    i agrey with monk – it is a diferent what puks.

    my mine is – for ajustibal (voile ) pucks – snoli inserts ore (german) einschlagmuttern this one from the DIY splitkit from Voile.

    for stationerie pucks youse the orginal 4×4 hole patern – this is enough for light wight riders- for havy and harcore riders + 2 skispax each puck ….

    this works – the last 5 years i build this concept.

    burton

    #646138
    nearls
    162 Posts

    @chrisnz wrote:

    I t-nuted the last board from the top. No base holes. And nothing has riped out yet hasnt had 100days thou.

    Good idea chris! Sounds like it would save quite a bit of time on trying to make the base of the deck tip top after pumping it full of holes.

    #646139
    Powder_Rider
    498 Posts

    Bump!

    Please comment on you long-term success or failures of using the Quiver killer/ Binding freedom inserts with the Voile 4-hole pucks.

    I going to use Quiver Killer (QK) inserts and Voile 4-hole pucks on my Nitro Retro Swallowtail. This board is an old foam core with a metal plate under the binding mounts. It was good enough to hold Elfgin hard plate bindings with Helo-coils, so I am confident QKs will work.

    Also, I am starting another DIY splitboard for my wife. A Venture 156 Euphoria, She’s going to ride both soft and Hard boots, mostly HBs. So will the Quiver Killer inserts and Voile 4-hole pucks work reliable well for her and this board? Or should I go with the standard Voile T nuts and two hole puck.

    #646140
    Splitinbend
    242 Posts

    @scooby2 wrote:

    For permanent installs, If you are experimenting, try this on a few holes. drill the hole for your threaded insert or ski screw, tap it or not. I like to tap the hole thinking that it allows the epoxy to harden the wood where the screw pitch rests. Then take a 1/16 bit and starting about 1/8 inch into the hole, drill two 45 degree angled holes about 1/4 out from the hole for the screw or insert.
    Then take some fiberglass or carbon fiber and cut a bunch up into 1/16″ or smaller shards. Saturate a pile of these with good epoxy resin, then stuff this resin and fiber mix into the screw holes until it is packed and try to tuck some of it into the tiny holes that you drilled. Brush your screws with a wire brush for a good bonding surface.

    The idea is to 1. harden up the soft wood where the screw holds on to the wood and 2. to bond the screw with a larger, strong and irregularly shaped chunk of epoxy and composite that wont rotate and wont pull out straight.

    Drill out two additional holes in each of your touring brackets so you mount one with 5 screws instead of 3. Three screws are just not enough for a touring bracket, too much stomping when you are setting a trail in a crust. T-nut it if you are going to ski your split much.

    Did you have to grind down the tip of the inserts to not go through the board or was there enough wood to fit the entire insert?

    #646141
    Scooby2
    611 Posts

    I’ve only done ski screws that way, never installed the quiver killer type inserts. I do use a longer ski screw and file/dremel down the tip so it is all wide threads and no point left on the screw.

    #646142
    Mtyetiman
    3 Posts

    #783950
    maniacdave
    564 Posts

    Anyone ever get and actual final depth on either Quiverkillers or Binding Freedom inserts? I hear everything from 9 to 9.5+mm. Was hoping someone could nerd it up with their digital calipers, have a hair under 10mm to play with on my Trapper.

    That was Pontus

    #783963
    mountainbikeak
    82 Posts

    Anyone ever get and actual final depth on either Quiverkillers or Binding Freedom inserts? I hear everything from 9 to 9.5+mm. Was hoping someone could nerd it up with their digital calipers, have a hair under 10mm to play with on my Trapper.

    You’ll be just fine if you have close to 10 mm to work with. The quiver killers and binding freedom inserts are right around 9.5 mm. On all the boards I used the inserts on, I would take the extra precautions and grind the point of the insert flat, almost to the extent of exposing a hole in the insert. You real don’t need the point to help install anyway!

    #783973
    maniacdave
    564 Posts

    Awesome, thanks dude!

    That was Pontus

    #784039
    maniacdave
    564 Posts

    Quiverkiller’s as ordered from G3 here in Canada, 8.5mm, just in case a few other folks were curious.

    That was Pontus

Viewing 11 posts - 21 through 31 (of 31 total)

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