Forums Splitboards Preflex Twin tip, jib board for Taylor
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  • #580203
    620 Posts

    Just kidding on the twin tip, I haven’t shaped any Preflex boards for a long while now, but have one coming together for myself and this one for Taylor this year. I thought I’d post about it since he’s mentioned it and b/c there is a healthy population of fellow board design fanatics here: (working on the images-Yay I think I figured it out)

    This is by far the gnarliest board I have made, I really don’t think he’ll be able to buckle the nose in settled pow or spring snow/breakable crust, we’ll see. I also told him he could mow down small trees with it. I shape the rocker into the core because I add only a relatively thin layer of carbon to the board. If it was glassed conventionally it would be too heavy to get the desired stiffness. If I didn’t shape the core, the lightweight composite wouldn’t hold the thick core in the mold to the right curve. My 185 x 26cms weigh in at 10 lbs, 10.5 with pucks, clips and touring brackets. The below pic is with the core shpaed flat and correct on the running surface and not profiled on the top side yet.

    It is mostly solid poplar with two 1-1/4″ Paulownia stringers with black locust faired in under the feet in the middle. I had to add one long 6 inch scarf joint for the Paulownia just because it comes pretty narrow otherwise no wood joints. I just stack 4″ Paulownia boards in to one big plank and cut stringers from there making sure that there are no short joints in the nose curve.

    I put more nose rise in than is always needed, but it keeps you from having to look at it or worry that it wont go up and over refrozen avy debris, brush, logs, crust etc. I really like the way they work breaking trail in the deep and allow you to stand firm on your front or back foot when riding at any speed. I see a lot of defensive leaning back to keep the nose up in videos nowadays. This core is about 1mm or a bit more too thick still and still needs the last bit of profiling.

    Here’s a long angle from the nose, shows how much rocker there is (near constant radius), it makes the board really reactive and squirrelly at lower speeds, threading the trees and on lower angle slopes. I picked this curve from measuring how much curve a board has when it is humming along at about 25 in medium density pow and loose from having the camber pushed out from the pressure of the snow in the first part of turn before coming across the fall line.

    View from the tail. After splitting, this bad boy should end up at about about 34.4 on the nose, 27.8 at the waist, 31.5cm at the tail. Taylor is 220 with a size 12 foot, with a low stance angle on the back foot so we based that width to 29cm right on the back foot. (I haven’t done the final templating on the nose outline curve or balanced the sidewall angle, so the nose looks a little unbalanced in this pic below, it should be 186 long after that)

    I’m real curious to get some feedback on these boards as I’m really the only one that his been riding them since the late 90s. If I get some demo boards out this season I’ll post here.

    120 Posts

    wow, awesome woodworking. I’d love to see more of this project as it progresses.

    351 Posts

    Beautiful work!!

    620 Posts

    Thanks guys, I’m wondering what the relationship is between boards that are almost finished and getting a deep and stable snowpack early in the season

    794 Posts

    Yeah this is really beautiful wood working and board shaping. The numbers and shape look ideal (for me). Needless to say, I am stoked. The pre-flexed “Preflex” design concept is novel and uniquely suited to soft snow. So is this construction. Both are fodder for lots of shredding and board design geekery. I am eager to feel how it rides. Let it snow!


    wasatch surf
    979 Posts

    warning preflex boards make you ride like this-

    You’ll have better style and about 80 less turns than anyone else on the mountain.

    Awesome work Scooby!

    794 Posts

    @wasatch surf wrote:

    warning preflex boards make you ride like this-

    You’ll have… about 80 less turns than anyone else on the mountain.

    That is such a nice shot Wasatch Surf ^ and such a nice, big turn. I already suffer from the 80-fewer-turns syndrome, so this is an ideal rider-shaper match.


    620 Posts

    leaves are falling, second cold front here in the Wasatch, moving along . . .

    CPC (Cardboard-Pencil-Controlled) cutting technology:

    Dozuki saw time! Love these saws, they cut less than .5mm wide. Love this part of the process also.


    382 Posts

    Thanks for sharing. Looking good.

    794 Posts

    This shape is turning out really, really nice. I told Scooby over email that he needs to patent this shovel curve :bow: ; it’s perfect–love it.


    Rico in AZ
    559 Posts

    @Taylor wrote:

    DANG! I can’t wait to see you ride this! I hope you have it by mid-January!

    620 Posts

    Finally about to send Taylor’s Board out and finish one for me at the same time (life happens), will post photos middle of next week once the bases are ground and I get the board s back. Talylor asked ne a basic question and I wrote an essay so thought I’d post it.

    Do you measure sidecut or rocker (when I weigh the board down to the riders weight) ?

    Because these are bc boards and turn off the rocker once they sink into any kind of snow, spring wet or winter dry, the rocker when weighted is an aspect that I focus on a lot. The fixed rocker generally tells how reactive the board is when unweighted between turns or putting around threading trees or, importantly how fun the board is in weaving through the trees in low angle terrain when there is a lot of red and orange in the forecast symbols.
    The active rocker is a measurement that I take standing on the board with it supported a short fixed distance from the tip and tail. This doesn’t give the exact curve the board has mid turn at speed, but it gives me a value for comparing boards and the effects of changing core materials and composites.

    More importantly, it tells me what kind of fell and what kind of arcs a board will want to make when someone lighter or heavier than me is driving it.

    As for the sidecut, I use an even radius, 10,12 and historically 14, centered between the feet of the rider. But these numbers do not translate to what is out there on the market for two reasons. First at lower speeds on a packed exit trail for example, because the board has a lot of strong rocker that is pressed flat between your feet, the sidecut really digs in right when you tip the board and pulls the board into an arc quick. For this reason the sidecut acts tighter at lower speeds on a surface. Also at the initiation of a turn contact with the snow is only between your feet, so it’s easy to swivel the board around without the effort you are accustomed to in a full length board.
    Then, when you are at speed, the board is stiff and strong and only flexes so far. This makes the sidecut feel a lot longer and has a great deal of stability. In practice you really notice this if you are ripping big round turns in say good spring corn. If you toll onto a different aspect or shady area or wind tightened snow and end up on a hard surface by surprise, the board will confidently continue the same arc as it was carving off of the base moments before. In contrast, a traditional flex board will fold up into a big smiley face, wash out, and you will be skidding and maybe bouncing leading to a big series of cartwheels. Also once the board is edged up a bit , the whole edge engages with the hard surface. This is entirely necessary if you drop a shallow soft slab over a buried crust and have to edge off to the side or just get on the brakes real hard and let the soft stuff go by. I would never ride a reverse sidecut for this reason. It just seems to take away an important tool that you might really need one day.

    I’m not knocking boards designed to swivel and skid and control speed really well in rough snow conditions and super steeps; just being clear that the style that bred these board’s design was to ride fast, make big round turns and exit those turns with more speed than traditional flexing designs. Traditional flex boards fold up into very tight turning radii (more so if you are heavier) that can really only skid out in deep snow and slow you down instead of slinging around as much into a fast round turn. Good for speed control (braking) and absorbing the shocks of resort snow surfaces, bad for maintaining speed which allows you to dig your rail into hard turns more.

    So they are named Preflex because the board is already flexed at low speeds so it is super resposive and manueverable at lower speeds and low density snow, but once hauling along, the board has more stiffness and stability to drive big turns at speeds when most just lean back and straightline while they keepo the fluttery nose of thier boards safely above the snow.
    The problem with traditional flex boards for me was that they were never stiff enough to allow me to reall y not worry abpout folding up the nose in big turns in denser snow at genuinely fast speeds, and they were sluggish and had to be pivoted around in great tree riding. Also on low angle days, you had to push the boards away from you to start a turn which displaces snow and slows you down when you want to maximize speed. A nice roundly and deeply rockerd board just pulls you into turns at low angle and feels a lot more fun while maintaining speed better.

    Clearly this is an response fuled by not geting out enough this year. This year was a bit of a wash for me so far weather and workwise. I’ll post next fall when I might have a handful of boards for sale next fall and will definitley have a few to demo next year, maybe even a 160-something. I do three constructions, burly, average and full paulownia. Sometimes I use a little s-glass if a board feels to stiff, but typically all hs carbon.

    794 Posts

    Thanks – that was a good read. All of this makes perfect sense to me. I’m eager to jib this board out on some of the bigger lines that are now opening up with the onset of corn season. I’m also excited because this board is explicitly designed to solve the problem of shovel folding in forward-weighted large radius turns, which is my native style. But, it does so while preserving nimbility at lower speeds in tight spaces. In my experience, boards that have achieved the former–which have been few and far between–have done so at least to some degree at the cost of the latter. Doing both well by using lots of passive rocker and limited active rocker is smart and novel.

    Thanks for sharing your shaping insights with us Scooby. Very cool stuff.


    620 Posts

    Thanks, I’m looking forward to hearing what you and other folks think after riding them a bit.

    31 Posts

    what!? this is so awesome

    620 Posts

    Rising from the clutter

    Thanks! rising from the clutter for a date with Fedex tomorrow, Looks nice and clean with the clickers to me.

    by the way, I really like the Plum hooks, they slide aluminum against alu instead of against the deck of the board and are super light.

    367 Posts

    How do I get one?

    620 Posts

    lets start talking about what you are looking for a board to do or not do,

    see your private messages inbox.

    794 Posts

    Looks beautiful and badass. And, yeah Zude.

    This thread will have to be renamed, “Scooby2 and the art of unintended snowboard companies.”


    794 Posts

    This beauty came in the mail today. Thanks, Scooby2–this is a very special ride — big, aggressive, stiff and stout. It’s also really beautiful. My girlfriend came home from work and was halted, “that’s the most beautiful snowboard I’ve ever seen.” Sooby2 is quite the craftsman. I’ll shred it tomorrow. More soon. Shred on!


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