Forums Split Partners Wanted Mt Shasta in June?
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  • #567774
    splitstr
    3 Posts

    Hi all,
    I am looking to put together a trip to Shasta and looking for other splitboarders to join me. I was thinking about early june or possibly july depending on the conditions.

    I have been to shasta twice, once on a sucessful climb to the summit and the other time well lets just say I have never been in winds so intense (my tent was the only casulty of that trip).

    I have been splitboarding for 5 years mostly in the Tahoe backcountry and have limited mountaineering experience (ASI AVI I Cert). Looking for intermediate/experienced partner(s) for a fun trip.
    Cheers,
    Doug

    #588413
    knucklesplitter
    340 Posts

    I am interested.

    Where do you split out of Reno? We should hook up for some turns.

    #588414
    ttriche
    116 Posts

    Interested, please post any updates as to your itinerary.

    Would be stoked to descend Diller Canyon and the Hotlum-Wintun (maybe) in addition to the West Face. Last year I skinned up to the Casaval and scrambled up that to Red Banks before turning around at around 8AM (hey, that’s what time the Fifth Season people said to turn around). Descended on what was basically boilerplate. This time around I would prefer to take a lightweight pack from Hidden Valley base camp and descend from the summit (or the top of Shastina in the case of Diller Canyon) at a bit more leisurely pace, seeing as to how conditions were a lot more favorable later in the day. Fool me once… 😉

    My wife will be with me as per last year, so if you want to meet up just for a day (eg. Diller), that’s cool, I think we will camp at Hidden Valley and leave my Megamid set up. My wife will probably come with me for the West Face at least. I don’t know if she is up for the Hotlum-Wintun (or if I will even have time to scurry around to the other side of the mountain) but if I have the option, I will.

    The Casaval ridge was a lot less exciting than I had heard… my time would have been better spent skinning around to Hidden Valley and going up from there. In any event, I really enjoyed the trip (failure to summit notwithstanding) and intend to make it a yearly outing.

    #588415
    TEX
    2486 Posts

    Im in for a Shasta trip, didit last tear in mid August. What are you talking , East side ? I want to try to skin all the way up.

    #588416
    jimw
    1421 Posts

    Not really a hijack, but maybe a “sidejack” ❓ . Here are a few thoughts. 8 AM seems like a pretty crazy turnaround time for Shasta in spring/summer conditions. When we were there last year, we left the summit around 12:30. We were on the West Face at 1:30 and it was primo. This was on July 4th!

    Hidden Valley/West Face is a classic. So is Hotlum-Wintun. On that same trip people were dropping off the summit down the east side on what I bet was primo corn. I’ve also been there in horrendous conditions (boilerplate up top, suncups down lower), so it depends.

    Diller Canyon… that brings back some memories. For comedic relief (and maybe to prevent similar mistakes), let me tell you about my one experience there. I was stoked from my first Shasta trip, a guided trip with MAS at the end of May several years ago where we summited and descended from the summit through West Face on perfect corn. So I decided I wanted to get back up there again, read about Diller Canyon in the book, and figured I would make a solo trip up there. Lesson #1: Take someone else so they can smack you when you are making stupid decisions. I arrived at night, and the logging roads back in that area are a complete maze even in the daylight. So I drove in somewhere by Black Butte and bivied. At first light I tried to drive up as far as I could. The problem with those roads is they seem to change a lot, so the map may or may not reflect reality. There is a lot of manzanita up there, and many of the spur roads are narrow, so expect to thrash your car. I was up there in a little 2 wheel drive Honda Civic. It was just comedic. I couldn’t see how to drive up as far as I wanted, so I parked and started hiking. My plan was to hike up to snowline, camp, then climb and descend the next day. I could see the canyon, and the road I was hiking was going in another direction, so I decided to bushwhack straight toward the canyon. Big mistake. Manzanita is tough shit. I finally made it to the canyon, and figured I would just hike straight up it and eventually hit snow. What I eventually hit was 20 foot high walls of talus narrowing into an unhikeable creek. At this point it was starting to get dark, so I had to hike back down with my 70-lb pack (I was a noob) and find a place to camp. Of course, I didn’t bring a water filter because I figured I would be melting snow. The next day, I hiked out along the road and found that it was like a 30 minute hike to the car if I just stayed on the road. What is it they say? Experience comes from bad decisionmaking? 🙂

    Anyway, Diller looks great if you can access it correctly. If you camp in Hidden Valley, climb Shastina, and want to drop Diller, I guess the only realistic way to get back to your camp would be to climb back up Diller. There are also supposedly some great steep lines off the north side of Shastina. Would love to check those out sometime.

    Here’s a trip report from a guy who did Diller last year (descenting at 6 PM on corn!)
    http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=2940

    Another useful link:
    http://www.skimountaineer.com/CascadeSki/CascadeSki.php?name=Shasta

    I’m sure the Shasta locals will chime in with info as well.

    Re: skinning all the way up. I think it’s possible, but tough. I believe fassy and PJ did that on the eastside last year. On our West Face trip fassy almost skinned all the way up West Face. He had to give in for the last 20 feet or so.

    #588417
    knucklesplitter
    340 Posts

    @jimw wrote:

    Re: skinning all the way up. I think it’s possible, but tough. I believe fassy and PJ did that on the eastside last year. On our West Face trip fassy almost skinned all the way up West Face. He had to give in for the last 20 feet or so.

    Fassy Claus used his Magical Yellow Boots[tm] . That’s no fair, so it doesn’t count. 😉

    #588418
    ttriche
    116 Posts

    Looks like Diller is more of a spring descent than a 4th-of-July kind of thing. I could see maybe doing a roadtrip in May for Diller, and then another in June (and maybe another in July for good measure…).

    I still need to knock off Tyndall and Darwin before they go to shit. 3rd time’s the charm on Tyndall, or so I hope — getting kind of tired of storms up there 🙂 but I made a modest list of summits I want to bag this year, and Darwin, Tyndall, Shasta were the final list. All three are repeat offenders for me.

    Shasta was beautiful last year, we went around the 4th of July weekend too. I was not very happy that the Fifth Season people tricked me, but such is life. Maybe they like skiing on ice or something. I don’t…

    #588419
    Dutch Marc
    70 Posts

    keep me posted on any updates. Sounds like a good trip. I have done some turns with nucklesplitter & jimw

    Also tried some hot spring action with ttriche & his wife after some turn in Mammoth Area. That could be a story for high up on the MT. Also Can’t forget PT420 since the SLC Splitfest action.

    Anyway keep updates on the board and lets see !!

    #588420
    shasta
    143 Posts

    I’m up for a gig like that; Hidden Valley is a great spot for options and a less crowded camp. I did see a pair of tele folks skin up to about 13 K on west face last year, ski crampons are a must if you want to skin to the top. East side short approaches will open a little later than usual as the snow is really deep. Diller looks funky this year, not as much snow as I expected in there, wind really moved it. I don’t really care where so I’ll keep an eye on this and just try to show up wherever.

    Andy

    #588421
    TEX
    2486 Posts

    Hey Shasta, how bout being the point man as far as conditions/routes go. It had to tell week to week whats going on up there from this far away

    #588422
    shasta
    143 Posts

    I’ll keep everyone posted.

    Did Green Butte Sunday. Got to the top about 11am, had to pow wow for about 1/2 hr before two fingers would penetrate. Great corn all the way to the lot at Bunny.

    I had to boot two sections the snow was so hard early, I need some split crampons!

    The West Face looks sweet, gonna check it out sometime this week.

    Andy

    #588423
    TEX
    2486 Posts

    How long before you can drive to the brewer trailhead?

    #588424
    jimw
    1421 Posts

    From:

    http://www.shastaavalanche.org/reports.htm

    “Brewer Creek Trailhead: Closed. Expect 17 mile approach to a fully buried trailhead.”

    🙂

    Last year you couldn’t drive to the trailhead until what, something like July? Sounds like this year will be no different. However I’ve heard it can be good when you can drive to within a mile or two of the TH, and start skinning from where you park, rather than waiting till you can drive to the TH as that often means hiking partway up the trail too.

    #588425
    shasta
    143 Posts

    Haven’t been that way yet this year but will check it out toward the end of May so I’ll post some info.

    Andy

    #588426
    SanFrantastico
    1514 Posts

    The snow on Shasta is still HUGE…

    8) 8) 8)

    Putting the poo in swimming pool since 1968.

    #588427
    ttriche
    116 Posts

    Also, as of May 12th, there was only a 14 mile approach to the Brewer Creek trailhead. So if things continue in this vein, it might be reasonable to expect a shorter ( x < 5 miles ) approach to a reasonable base camp for the Hotlum-Wintun.

    I was looking in the Mount Shasta Book and the difficulty given for the West Face gully versus the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge was wildly divergent. The West Face kicks up to maybe 40 degrees, right? That doesn’t really strike me as ”extreme” especially after looking over a 50 degree bulge on Darwin! Anyways, my wife has started to bring up “that trip to Shasta” which, to the best of my knowledge, is a first (her pushing a ski trip) and I was thinking that a good long weekend might permit doing both. But that would be quite a long weekend — really, I think the term for that period of time is a ”week” 😉

    Assuming for a moment that the Hotlum-Wintun becomes reasonably accessible by the beginning of June (or even Memorial Day weekend), and the West Face gully remains scoured above about 12000′ as in the report, what direction are people leaning in for route selection?

    I guess if an elevator-shaft descent is called for, there’s always the Trinity Chutes… but I have no idea how one would get back towards either Hidden Valley or the vicinity of Brewer Creek base camp in that event. But anyone who wants to descend the chutes probably is not interested in group dynamics anyways.

    #588428
    Ecobrad
    2068 Posts

    @ttriche wrote:

    what direction are people leaning in for route selection?

    I’ve got a trip planned for the first weekend in June and am leaning towards a base camp at either Horse Camp or Hidden Valley, depending on conditions. Assult route and decent will also depend on conditions but am leanding toward Casaval Ridge or Cascade Gultch. I’m no master trip planner though. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    #588429
    dishwasher-dave
    460 Posts

    A buddy and I climbed Shasta via Casaval and a delluded west face detour on Friday 5/12. Great climbing conditions, fun but pretty crappy riding conditions. At 1pm it was still rock hard on misery hill and too hard high on avi gulch.

    We skinned up a ways toward Casaval, but certainly carried out splits on our backs more than we skinned. (Since my bro doesn’t have split crampons i left mine in the car. I’m sure we could have skinned much higher with them.)

    There is a ton of snow on the mountain. Although a little less in the west face/hidden locales.

    Casaval

    Rad snow rime on red rocks.

    #588430
    jimw
    1421 Posts

    @ttriche wrote:

    The West Face kicks up to maybe 40 degrees, right? That doesn’t really strike me as ”extreme” especially after looking over a 50 degree bulge on Darwin!

    It’s all relative. 🙂 I don’t think Shasta has too many eastern-Sierra-super-steep-narrow-shot-dropping-through-huge-granite-walls types of lines, but it makes up for that in the sheer enormity of the mountain. And other things to worry about, like crevasses. West Face is a great run. At the top, there are a couple different entrances to lookers left of the main line that are a little steeper.

    #588431
    shasta
    143 Posts

    Don’t know if there is still interest but…Did a skin up from bunny to the top of Giddy on Friday, snow all the way from the lot, sweet corn back down.

    I hear its 10 miles into Brewer currently.

    Food for thought.

    Andy

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