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  • #580125
    330 Posts

    These look like a pretty simple, and efficient alternative to a z pulley rescue. Anybody have one, or handled one?

    298 Posts

    I’ve used one for a bit, it does work but it’s a one trick device. You also need to pack it carefully and keep it on the outside of your pack or something.

    What I liked:
    -It’s easier to set up, and hauling works well.
    -You don’t have to understand how a z-pulley works.
    -There is less stretch in the rope than with a z-pulley, so it’s more efficient in some cases.
    -It locks itself off.
    -Seems well made, although there was a recall of some devices if I remember correctly.

    What I didn’t like
    – Extra item to bring, weight.
    -Doesn’t do anything else.
    -Swings around on your pack, also looks dorky.

    I’ve thought about buying one, but another setup is more versatile in my opinion. Just think what you can do with two long prussiks and a few biners. Ascend, decend, rappel, belay, tie stuff down on your pack, make an anchor, make a resque sled, repair stuff.
    So you’ll be wanting to carry some prussik rope anyway right?

    In tricky terrain I now carry:
    Two prussik cords, one short sling.
    DMM Revolver biner with build in pulley
    Petzl oval lockers with ultralegere pulley.
    Climbing Technology RollNLock (pulley & rope clamp).

    The Petzl pulleys work way better than you’d think for such a light piece of kit. I use the RollNLock as the first pulley, because it can lock and will deal better with rope stretch that way. The Petzl as second, and the DMM as the last pulley. It works pretty well, but you need to practice setting it up.

    This whole setup is only slightly heavier than the Mammut kit but you can do a lot more than just crevasse resque. Note that Petzl has a similar kit to what I use, but it doesn’t work with very thin rope so I didn’t buy that one.

    330 Posts

    Ya, I’ve already got pulleys, biners, slings, and prussik rope.

    I just saw this, and it seems like crevasse rescue for dummies, in a compact package

    298 Posts

    But you’ll still have to read the manual and practice it sometime at the climbing gym, because when you’re 50metres down in a crevasse is not a good time learning to use it. So you might as well use the stuff you have already and practice some with that. Keeps you busy while there isn’t any snow yet too.. 🙂

    The dude I know who has this thing, never uses it anyway.

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