Forums Boots La Sportiva Sideral owners, is this how you filed down the forward lean slot? Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 21 total) 1 2 → Author Posts November 5, 2015 at 10:32 am #785395 Mr_Orange 76 Posts Below is a photoshoped idea of how the slots should be filed down: So is this the furthest extent the slots can be filed down? Would it provide enough lean? Can someone post a picture of how you filed down the metal bracket slot on the La sportiva sideral? The confusing part is that the male piece actually hooks into the slot (unlike dynafit). You can see from the interior view of the metal bracket slot that it is shaped to suit this “hook”. This is what my mean by the “hook” and how it interacts with the plate: Did you guys have to sculpt that bracket interior into a consistent extruded shape that the hook can glide against? Did you use some fancy dremel bit? It seems like if you file the slot even further past what is depicted above, you will get into a zone where that interior shape changes, and “hook” might have a hard time sliding smoothly without rubbing into undercuts and ridges. This is what i’m referring to. I’m wondering if a possibility is just to file away the tip of the “hook”. Then it will be the same as the Dynafit slots. Wonder if the hook is really necessary. LIke this: November 8, 2015 at 9:53 pm #785595 Mr_Orange 76 Posts Tried the Sideral for the first time today. Forward lean flex definitely needs to be modded. I even have the eliminator cushion tongues in and it was still too rigid. It just feels like your toe side carve is very abrupt and you can’t squat low to absorb landings. I’m not that big of a guy. 5’10, 160lbs. I’m assuming the people that don’t even need to mod their hardboots are probably just bigger/heavier. I had to ride today with the lower buckle tight and the upper buckles very loose, which actually feels okay in terms of foward flex, but then your heel doesn’t feel as locked in. I wonder if (as an aternative to filing down the plate) I should try moving the lower buckle back to the cuff pivot point or even slightly above it. Like this guy did to his dynafit: http://www.tetonat.com/2012/02/24/guess-whos-boots-modified-dynafit-tlt5/ I think this would improve the heel hold and make it feel more like how a softboot strap binding ankle buckle is positioned. Then i can ride this way with the upper buckle loose and it should feel similar to a softboot binding. Probably worth trying this first since you can still do the plate file down mod even after this one. November 10, 2015 at 9:20 am #785682 Zude 367 Posts The hook seems to be the weak point of this system (i’m not sure it will last). I tried sending a reply to your e-mail. Not sure if you got it? I have dremeled the down the inside of the plate and used some grease for lube. The hook has been wearing away metal on the plate (lots of small shavings in the interface of the hook/plate). I have had the extra power strap sewn onto the egsisting strap to add length for the foward lean as well as used elimanator tongues. I just drilled some holes (1 1/2″ dia) in the medial side of both boots yesterday for softer flex. I’m thinking about a mod with para cord to replace the hook/plate mech (still in the pipe dream phase). November 10, 2015 at 9:25 am #785683 Zude 367 Posts p.s. I filed all the way to the bolt holes top and bottom on the plates…once i figure out how to post pics i will do so (next weekend) November 10, 2015 at 4:01 pm #785699 Mr_Orange 76 Posts Sorry, i didn’t receive your email for some reason. Looking forward to seeing how you sculpted that inside area where the hook latches onto and glides against. Like i said, it’s confusing because of the different surface elevations once you file past a certain point. You have to make sure the hook has a consistent smooth “walkway” to glide against. I’m guessing you probably just determined the lowest point and then just sanded everything down to that. This is what i mean by that: By the way, this page explains how to post pictures pretty well: http://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/658558/Official–How-to-embed-pictures-and-videos-thread- November 23, 2015 at 2:33 pm #786306 Mr_Orange 76 Posts I actually went ahead and filed it down like “plate 1” from the first picture. This is actually get’s you a pretty decent amount of flex. I don’t think you’ll need to go much further than that. You’d have to carve away past the plastic ditch behind the plate if you do and you might risk weakening the bolt inserts. To scult the interior, i just used this dremel bit that came with my dremel: http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/Dremel%20Rotary%20Tool%20Bit%209905%20(EN)%20r19779v15.jpg It was very easy. You don’t even need to do a clean job. Just get the rough shape down with the dremel and make sure there’s no abrubt kinks anywhere. Mines looks pretty sloppy but everything slides fine. I’ll post pictures when i get a chance. November 26, 2015 at 3:31 pm #786436 Zude 367 Posts https://imageshack.com/i/paUu4C6Oj[/image] Here’s some visuals. November 26, 2015 at 3:33 pm #786437 Zude 367 Posts https://imageshack.com/i/paUu4C6Oj[/image] November 26, 2015 at 3:35 pm #786438 Zude 367 Posts December 7, 2015 at 1:19 am #786882 Mr_Orange 76 Posts Those are some giants holes. How’s the lateral flex now compared to a soft boot binding. I’m thinking of holding off on the lateral flex mods on the boot because i got a hold of some Bomber splitboard sidewinders. Going to see if these alone will give me the right amount of lateral flex. I wanna try to mount them on a custom thin plate so they will have a lower stack height too. I pretty much filed down the forward lean plate the exact same way. Wish i can get less “highback” foward lean though. When I had soft boot bindings, I always set the least amount of forward lean on the high back because it’s very forgiving on jump landings. The trade off thought, isyou can hold a deep heelside carve longer with forward lean. Why do you have the highback extender attached, I’m actually thinking of chopping the current red high back even shorter. December 7, 2015 at 2:00 pm #786896 Zude 367 Posts I placed the spoilers to try and spread out the pressure? (seems to work) I have some new mods to the boot that i will post soon. I think i may have eliminated the need for the plate all-together by bolting on a speed cube to work as a stop above the vertabrae. I still need to get out and test them, works great on the carpet. The holes work great (ala Kefler) for getting some more medial flex( my ski buddy was calling them powder ports) December 7, 2015 at 3:11 pm #786897 Guy Gaston 21 Posts Zude wrote: I placed the spoilers to try and spread out the pressure? (seems to work) I have some new mods to the boot that i will post soon. I think i may have eliminated the need for the plate all-together by bolting on a speed cube to work as a stop above the vertabrae. I still need to get out and test them, works great on the carpet. The holes work great (ala Kefler) for getting some more medial flex( my ski buddy was calling them powder ports) Following with great interest! December 9, 2015 at 2:18 am #786951 Mr_Orange 76 Posts speed cube? Looking forward to it. December 9, 2015 at 8:48 pm #786976 Zude 367 Posts Bolt at the bottom limits forward lean. Block at the top allows more erect stance, it also is softer. Going to use double sided tape for the Eliminator against the spoiler! Not sure if the walk mode will be limited by the bolt into the fin? The lower bolt doesn’t seem to take much pressure due to toe-side lean, so it seem legit on the carpet. Walked around the house and it seemed fine. I’m going to keep the hook assembly for now and just cover it with gorilla tape to hold the latch back. I need to get out for some testing, my home mountain looks good. December 10, 2015 at 12:55 am #786985 Mr_Orange 76 Posts Seems like you’ve almost doubled the amount of forward and rear lean. Is that “speed cube” a transulcent rubber block with a hard insert inside of it? Where did you get that? That forward lean bolt seems kinda sketchy since the red plastic piece it’s going into is pretty narrow. Mines is actually hollowed out from the sides (I think I have a newer sideral. The one with the red tongue). Not sure if yours is too. That rear elimator tongue seems like it’d be pretty comfy. Are you using an eliminator on the front too? I really like the feel of the elimator in the front, so if i add that to the rear as well, the whole shin thickness would be huge. Has anyone every done a spring mod (like those deeluxes alpine carving boots) that still has walk mode? December 10, 2015 at 7:25 am #786994 Zude 367 Posts The cube is off my old Sparks, it was shattered inside so i cleaned it and filled it with g-flex. The Vertabrae might catch on the block in ski mode? I can get the same lean I had before or a more vertical stance because the block swivels. Its attached with a t-nut through the back of the boot by the way. I took the eliminators from the front and moved them to the back so no more soft tongue up front for now. Two sets of eliminators seem like they would take up too much space in the boot. I also switched to my old intuition liners from my Insano boots which are larger volume and softer. Yes, the rear bolts could be sketchy? It seems like the strap and the existing tongue of the boot take most of the forward lean pressure though (a bumper where the bolt is would be great). The bolt is there as a final stop (I’m thinking of placing a nylon sleeve over it with a washer at the base to reduce friction and distribute pressure). The p-bex fin seems really solid (until it fails I guess). I’ve got to get out for some tours to see if this is reliable or not. I do have questions about how this will ski in split mode as well. I’m not going to do away with the plate and latch just yet. La Sportiva could easily modify their vertebrae system for splitting without changing the rest of the boot at all if they had the motivation. Just a bunch of pinche skiers I guess.. February 7, 2016 at 1:23 am #789152 Jan Machacek 3 Posts Hi guys, my proposal of modification of forward flex: Voile strap. February 8, 2016 at 12:02 pm #789223 Mr_Orange 76 Posts Which length is your voile strap? I was going to try this with a booster strap but you’d have to do some stitching. This is way easier to put on. After filing down the forward lean plates all the way and using the eliminator tongue i did 2 more mods. One is cutting out the center top portion of the tongue to the same shape of this tlt6 tongue. I didn’t even stitch a fabric filler inbetween. You do have extend the inner cuff flap with a piece of thin cutting board plastic to make sure it doesn’t get stuck in the tongue though. Like this tongue: http://www.randosaigai.com/mercury111712_0689.jpg The other thing was just triming the inner lower portion of the cuff kind of like this: http://fstatic1.mtb-news.de/f/wp/qj/wpqjvwghvhjs/medium_TLT6cuff.jpg Both of these had very subtle effects though. I think the forward lean plate and eliminator tongue did much more. Even after all of this i still feel like i’d like more forward lean so i think I’m gonna try the voile strap thing. The forward lean is sort of a compromise because with less, it feels like you can hold a toe side carve better and deeper. However, I feel like i need more forward flex to get lower when popping a jump and landing a jump. Also, here is an example of someone else doing the hole thing: February 9, 2016 at 6:36 am #789255 Jan Machacek 3 Posts My Voile Straps are 46 cm long, which should be 18″. http://www.voile.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/voile_strap_18_inch_perspective.jpg March 7, 2017 at 2:36 pm #801258 Jimy 64 Posts @zude, I have been looking at adding a pair of sideral 2.0 to my arsenal and all your photos have been deleted. Was wondering if you still had them so I could see the mods you did. knuckle dragger Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 21 total) 1 2 → You must be logged in to reply to this topic.