Forums Tips & Questions I suck at base repair…help a brutha out.
Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
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  • #571459
    BastrdSonOfElvis
    80 Posts

    Dudes, my Ptex repairs look awful and I don’t know why. I’m using candles and the first thing is that if I’m using clear or translucent Ptex there’s so much black carbon from lighting it on fire when it drips it might as well be black Ptex. It looks like crap. Also, after my repair job cools and I scrape it cracks and looks even worse. Clearly, I’m doing something wrong.

    Am I dripping too much into the defect at once or maybe not letting it cool enough before I add more? And how do I keep my clear Ptex clear?

    #615853
    Snurfer
    1448 Posts

    There are Ptex specific irons (think wood burner/solder iron).
    I happen to have a cheap woodburner with flat “foot” type tip, so I use that.
    Its slower, but there is no actual burning and I can smooth and press the ptex into the base. It also allows one to heat up the wound area to get better bonding.
    If there is exposure of the core, I generally apply a thin layer of slow cure, marine epoxy first to seal the core and then cut cross hatches in that with a razor blade. This way the ptex has a surface to grip.

    Good luck

    Shark Snowsurf Chuna
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    Spark R&D Arc

    #615854
    BastrdSonOfElvis
    80 Posts

    Woh, that’s good stuff. I wish I had posted before I tried to fix the huge hole in my base — right down to the wood. I just dripped Ptex into it. Hope it’s alright. I’ll look into a Ptex iron for sure. Thanks.

    #615855
    deejayoh
    50 Posts

    There are about 5 different hardness ptex materials. The drip candles are the softest and messiest. if you want to use an iron with ptex you will need to get some of the ptex string or ribbon.

    it’s all pretty cheap at tognar

    http://www.tognar.com/base_repair_tools_iron_ptex_gouges_damage.html

    #615856
    Maxwell Graham
    19 Posts

    This is a bit of a necro post. But I feel anyone who is looking at base repair info should know that ptex doesn’t bond properly with core material. As stated above, you need epoxy to bind to the core. The way I do it is the same as mentioned earlier. The guys I know at my local shop do it a little different though. Chisel out the injured area and remove anything that looks delaminated. Melt your ptex into the wound, let cool, then take it out the ptex “bandage” and cover the wound in epoxy, place the ptex bandage back into the wound. Pour a final layer of ptex over the area. Cool and scrape!

    I’m not a shop tech, just a poor guy who does his own repairs. Take this advice with a grain of salt haha.

    #615857
    christoph benells
    717 Posts

    for a core shot you need to do a base patch. your local shop can sell you sheets of base material or you could buy it online.

    cut out the affected area of base in a uniform shape, and cut out the base material in that same shape.

    epoxy the new base material in. if you do it good enough you wont need a base and stone grind.

    #615858
    aksltxlt
    621 Posts

    Epoxy works best, I use it for both core shots and to cover t bolts. P-tex never stays in for me

    #615859
    burton
    329 Posts

    sorry it is wirten in german but some pictures…

    http://www.wildschnee.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=124&Itemid=242

    burton

    #615860
    ozsplit
    25 Posts

    i ve done many many years of this… the key is a clean base… use a good base cleaner or you ll have no luck… you need to let it totally evaporate before laying up your p-tex… p-tex is basically plastic welding.. it takes experience to lay a good bead… black p-tex is easy, the carbon build up (black stuff) is masked by the color… clear is a bit more difficult… when laying up clear you need to keep the flame BLUE, if you move to candle too far off the base, the flame sparks up and turns orange and it ll carbonate… then it ll drop black sh1t all through your work… if you can keep the candle burning blue, just off the base you ll decrease the amount of black sh1t that will drop into the repair…

    as someone mentioned earlier, core shots need base welding… i use this for those deeper scars… http://www.wintersteiger.com/en/Sports/Machines/New-Machines/Base-repair/23-Polyman

    #615861
    saign
    330 Posts

    All of the advise above is great. Core shots will never stay in place without a base weld.

    For deep shots that don’t hit core with the candle: Clean well. Get the candle nice and hot. Then take a scrap of something and scrape all the carbon off the candle while its still burning. Once clean hold the candle with a low blue flame to where it touches the base and heats the surrounding plastic while slowly melting in the new clear plastic, creating a nice bond. Scrape with a razor and sand flat lengthwise keeping the grain the same as the original stone grind. Finish with a scotchbrite pad.

    I can fill em to where you can only see em if you look extra close. It takes practice, keeping the candle clean, and slowly melting are key

    #615862
    ozsplit
    25 Posts

    good points saign… clean candle is key… i also like to use a small scraper with a handle while i p-tex… candle in right hand, scraper in left… if i see a small amount of carbonation ready to drop you can slide the scraper underneath… i use the scraper so that the candle drips only where i want it… and that it only drips clear, uncarbonated p-tex…

    does that make sense ???

    rip to the avy victim at donner yesterday… saw all the commotion when we left sugarbowl yesterday…

    #615863
    summersgone
    814 Posts

    This is way worth the $. I have one and you can put in clear welds, or black. I use it for anything larger then a scratch, and it is smooth (if you figure out how to take off excess well). Screw candles, they suck. What these guys said about clean bases, but this thing kills it.

    http://www.slidewright.com/ski-mender-rp100-base-repair-pistol_pa-smrp100.html?cat=74

    #615864
    Splitinbend
    242 Posts

    One thing I learned about doing p tex is make sure you hold the candle close enough to the board that there is no orange flame. Only the low glowing blue flame or else it burns and gets brittle.

    #615865
    meatsauce
    34 Posts

    The cleaning of the base is extremely important. Base cleaner is good but… if you can readily get things from your dentist (specifically used dental picks – lol) I find that these tools are great for diggin out the itty and gritty. Harbor freight also sells some inexpensive pic sets.
    Additionally, i heat the base up slightly with a heat gun (harbor freight) and make small precise X marks with a razor blade along the damaged area. Then ptex and like a good batch of moonshine – its all about the color of the flame – soft blue is good. I’m by no means an expert and you can base weld with this same method – In theory the cleaning, diggin out, razor markings are good practice. Ptex is nasty toxic shit – and to the best of my knowledge I don’t know anyone who has gotten high from it. Thus, its a good exercise to wear a respirator.

    #615866
    Zude
    367 Posts

    Didn’t read all the replies but the shop i sneak into has P-tex candles and then another product the guys call base-weld. Sounds stupid to me but you do a base-weld with base-weld.

    West systems G-flex epoxy will work and never come out, unless you do a real sloppy job..

    #615867
    leonmajor
    7 Posts

    For any base repair against the edge or to the core you need to use metal grip. Fill the damaged area half way with metal grip then put p-tex on top of that. For both applications I would recommend the soldering iron with a flat tip method. Finally instead of scraping the repair smooth with a metal scraper try using a panzer file it is much faster and you get better results. Side note a panzer file is also useful for sharpening your plastic wax scrapers. Most ski shops will have both metal grip and panzer files but if not they are readily available online.

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