Forums DIY and Mods How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
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  • #578763

    **EDITED. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!**

    So you’ve decided to cut your perfectly functioning snowboard in half. Congratulations! You are now just as crazy as the rest of us!

    Here is how to seal your freshly exposed core:

    What you’ll need:
    -Splitboard
    -Epoxy or a Varethane sealant
    -Popsicle sticks
    -Gloves
    -Foil/wax paper
    -Paint brush or sponge
    -Rags

    1. Setup your new skis on a stable platform, inside edge facing up.

    2A. Get your sealant ready. Most people use a polyurethane or varethane.

    2B. Get your sealant ready. For foam core boards, you’ll have to use the G-flex epoxy, in which you want equal parts resin and hardener. Do this on a piece of foil or wax paper. This ratio is dependant on your brand of Epoxy, so be sure to read the instructions before mixing. You’ll want to mix the resin and hardener smoothly with a popcicle stick to avoid creating too many air bubbles. Make sure it is thoroughly mixed.

    We don’t use a varethane any more. Here’s a sneak peak of our secret weapon. Sorry, we can’t tell you what it is… I mean, it IS a secret after all 😛

    4. Using a paint brush or sponge, carefully and smoothly lay an even layer of sealant across the board. Be sure to not miss any spots.

    5. Wipe off any drips. Keep checking on the board every so often to make sure there are no new drips.

    6. Add a second layer 1-4 hours after the first layer or when the sealant begins to set. DON’T wait until the board has completely dried because you want the layers to bond to one another. If you use epoxy, you’ll only need one layer.

    7. “Watch paint dry”… literally until it is sealed. This usually takes 24-36 hours until completely dry. And you’re done!

    Hint: When using Epoxy/Varethane as your sealant, be sure to check on your board after you’ve toured a hand full of times. Splits can get pretty banged up, and that epoxy can get chipped off. Reseal as needed.

    **EDITED. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!**

    #668766
    Scooby2
    620 Posts

    mmmm, looks like my can of Watco Teak Oil, Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer is real good too but lots of VOC (stink and toxicity) to help it leech/seep into oily hardwoods-good reputation for refinishing and preserving exterior wood windows on exposed sides of houses, you almost hate to buy a whole can of that crap just for the strips on your board. http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/. I’d just wax the rails every time you wax the way burton/wildschnee suggests, no biggie. With epoxy I like to leave the wood rough sanded, apply epoxy, then sand it back a bit so there isn’t a layer to chip off, you don’t want an epoxy layer on the wood, you just want the exposed wood to be well saturated with hardened resin.

    #668767
    Boneless
    13 Posts

    If you live around the ocean GitRot is the best. Rather than just being a flexible epoxy, it actually replaces the cellulose fibers of the wood. It doesn’t adhere to the ptex so you still need something else if you use the pucks.

    #668765
    Reindeer mtn
    64 Posts

    Great thread. Was just looking into this myself. Any reason not to use outdoor paint coat?

    #668768
    PedroDelfuego
    758 Posts
    #668769
    Anonymous
    76 Posts

    what a waste of time i never sealed my board and after 10 years it is fine not a bit of delam! and looks just like your pic … wood and ptex!

    #668770

    :thumpsup: :thumpsup:

    Brendon has been debating sealing his boards any more for that same reason ha
    Ever feel like we do things just because that’s how we’ve always done them? 😛

    **EDITED OP. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!**

    #668771
    Zude
    367 Posts

    Spar varnish or varethane it cheap and lasts. I just couldn’t bring myself to do nothing…. :scratch:

    #668772
    Volcom82
    11 Posts
    #668773
    Boneless
    13 Posts

    Tried the marine epoxy it once for holding my pucks in. Didn’t last. Got brittle and chipped out. I also tried the paint route and had my board delam in a few weeks. So I guess the option for not sealing is really only if you’re in dry snow. I guess is also depends on the manufacturer. Had both a lib and a salomon delam on the inside edge.

    #668774
    Reindeer mtn
    64 Posts

    Used paint enamel that also worked on the steel inserts as i cut a Burton with 3d pattern.

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