Forums DIY and Mods How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total) Author Posts June 14, 2013 at 2:17 am #578763 Chair2BoardSports 62 Posts **EDITED. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!** So you’ve decided to cut your perfectly functioning snowboard in half. Congratulations! You are now just as crazy as the rest of us! Here is how to seal your freshly exposed core: What you’ll need: -Splitboard -Epoxy or a Varethane sealant -Popsicle sticks -Gloves -Foil/wax paper -Paint brush or sponge -Rags 1. Setup your new skis on a stable platform, inside edge facing up. 2A. Get your sealant ready. Most people use a polyurethane or varethane. 2B. Get your sealant ready. For foam core boards, you’ll have to use the G-flex epoxy, in which you want equal parts resin and hardener. Do this on a piece of foil or wax paper. This ratio is dependant on your brand of Epoxy, so be sure to read the instructions before mixing. You’ll want to mix the resin and hardener smoothly with a popcicle stick to avoid creating too many air bubbles. Make sure it is thoroughly mixed. We don’t use a varethane any more. Here’s a sneak peak of our secret weapon. Sorry, we can’t tell you what it is… I mean, it IS a secret after all 😛 4. Using a paint brush or sponge, carefully and smoothly lay an even layer of sealant across the board. Be sure to not miss any spots. 5. Wipe off any drips. Keep checking on the board every so often to make sure there are no new drips. 6. Add a second layer 1-4 hours after the first layer or when the sealant begins to set. DON’T wait until the board has completely dried because you want the layers to bond to one another. If you use epoxy, you’ll only need one layer. 7. “Watch paint dry”… literally until it is sealed. This usually takes 24-36 hours until completely dry. And you’re done! Hint: When using Epoxy/Varethane as your sealant, be sure to check on your board after you’ve toured a hand full of times. Splits can get pretty banged up, and that epoxy can get chipped off. Reseal as needed. **EDITED. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!** August 14, 2013 at 11:18 pm #668766 Scooby2 620 Posts mmmm, looks like my can of Watco Teak Oil, Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer is real good too but lots of VOC (stink and toxicity) to help it leech/seep into oily hardwoods-good reputation for refinishing and preserving exterior wood windows on exposed sides of houses, you almost hate to buy a whole can of that crap just for the strips on your board. http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/. I’d just wax the rails every time you wax the way burton/wildschnee suggests, no biggie. With epoxy I like to leave the wood rough sanded, apply epoxy, then sand it back a bit so there isn’t a layer to chip off, you don’t want an epoxy layer on the wood, you just want the exposed wood to be well saturated with hardened resin. October 1, 2013 at 10:43 pm #668767 Boneless 13 Posts If you live around the ocean GitRot is the best. Rather than just being a flexible epoxy, it actually replaces the cellulose fibers of the wood. It doesn’t adhere to the ptex so you still need something else if you use the pucks. October 2, 2013 at 8:05 pm #668765 Reindeer mtn 64 Posts Great thread. Was just looking into this myself. Any reason not to use outdoor paint coat? October 2, 2013 at 11:51 pm #668768 PedroDelfuego 758 Posts Varathene or Spar Urethane, not exactly wheel reinvention… :thumpsup: http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=12858&hilit=varathene http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=13585&hilit=+varathene&start=0 http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11598&p=84237&hilit=varathene#p84237 October 3, 2013 at 8:21 pm #668769 Anonymous 76 Posts what a waste of time i never sealed my board and after 10 years it is fine not a bit of delam! and looks just like your pic … wood and ptex! October 18, 2013 at 8:22 pm #668770 Chair2BoardSports 62 Posts :thumpsup: :thumpsup: Brendon has been debating sealing his boards any more for that same reason ha Ever feel like we do things just because that’s how we’ve always done them? 😛 **EDITED OP. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!** October 19, 2013 at 3:42 pm #668771 Zude 367 Posts Spar varnish or varethane it cheap and lasts. I just couldn’t bring myself to do nothing…. :scratch: November 26, 2013 at 7:33 pm #668772 Volcom82 11 Posts Just split my first board and used pc-11 a marine grade two part epoxy. Anyone else usevthisvstuff?? November 26, 2013 at 8:04 pm #668773 Boneless 13 Posts Tried the marine epoxy it once for holding my pucks in. Didn’t last. Got brittle and chipped out. I also tried the paint route and had my board delam in a few weeks. So I guess the option for not sealing is really only if you’re in dry snow. I guess is also depends on the manufacturer. Had both a lib and a salomon delam on the inside edge. November 26, 2013 at 9:18 pm #668774 Reindeer mtn 64 Posts Used paint enamel that also worked on the steel inserts as i cut a Burton with 3d pattern. Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total) You must be logged in to reply to this topic.