Forums The Gear Room Hardbooters – Crampon & Leash Questions
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  • #787538
    96avs01
    874 Posts

    Looking to get a pair of pons that are lighter than my G12s and G14s. Anyone rocking the Grivel Haute Route? Considering these over the Camp 390s as I love Grivel steel. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

    What are folks that are rocking tech toes using for leashes, or are most going without? Thinking about grabbing the Hagan Kevlar Leash, anyone using this or something similar? Again, any feedback is greatly appreciated.

    Cheers

    165 Venture Divide/Spark Frankenburners/La Sportiva Spantiks
    163W Jones Solution/Phantom Alphas/Dynafit TLT5s
    162 Furberg

    Chris

    #787547
    dishwasher-dave
    460 Posts

    For ski stuff, I’ve been using BD aluminum on TLT6s for everything but straight water ice w/ rappels. Worked groovy so far. Those grivels look great though.

    In the bc I’ve never thought about using leashes and pretty much always lock my toes. I’ve skied around resorts a fair bit on my split with dyna toes and thought about rocking leashes but never actually done it. I have a pair of long stretchy leashes (b&d I think) that I would prolly use if I needed to. Those Hagans look fine but might keep the skis pretty close to the bod in a fall.

    Although I once watched a super solid skier partner release from dynafits on his first turn (prolly wasn’t really in them) and go for a terrifying fall (only bruised pride, thankfully), I don’t think I’ve released from locked toes while ski dorking around.

    #787589
    96avs01
    874 Posts

    Thanks Dave! How’s the aluminum holding up?

    Still going back and forth between locking the toes or rocking leashes…

    165 Venture Divide/Spark Frankenburners/La Sportiva Spantiks
    163W Jones Solution/Phantom Alphas/Dynafit TLT5s
    162 Furberg

    Chris

    #787642
    dishwasher-dave
    460 Posts

    I’ve never had any issues with aluminum crampons. I used some strap on Camps for a couple years and then updated to automatic BDs when I went fruit boot 2 seasons back.

    I’m not especially careful with them (i.e. I’ll walk across rocks on Shasta) but I’m also pretty light. A bigger person stepping on a rock in the perfectly wrong way could conceivably break them but I think that would be rare.

    #787666
    moridinbg
    148 Posts

    I would strongly advice against the Haute Route. For me, it’s more of a touring crampon than a mountaineering one. I have had them for two years now and I really want to change them.
    The issue is that their teeth, especially the front ones, are just too short. I spent August last year (2014) in Chile and Argentina and got to use them A LOT, due to an extremely shitty season, with minimal snowfall and lots of ice. On steeper ice they are flat out scary. The grip is just not enough.
    My friend with me was with Fitwell softboots with much beefier crampons and had zero issues. Just after I was telling him how much better the TLTs are from cramponing and mountaineering…

    #787734
    96avs01
    874 Posts

    @moridinbg Yeah, I had a pair shipped out. Really surprised how far forward the bail sits on the crampon. It really limits the amount of clearance that the front points get from the end of the boot. They’re definitely going back. Going to take a harder look at the BD aluminum, though I really like the idea of steel front/aluminum rear 10 point setup for spring touring on Cascade volcanoes, and carry in case things prove spicier than planned. Perhaps I can strike a deal with a manufacturer to sell me parts separately and assemble my ideal setup…

    165 Venture Divide/Spark Frankenburners/La Sportiva Spantiks
    163W Jones Solution/Phantom Alphas/Dynafit TLT5s
    162 Furberg

    Chris

    #787735
    buell
    532 Posts

    Camp 390 have been great for me on the volcanoes. They fit the TLT5 / 6 perfectly and are really light. I am lightweight but walk on rocks in mixed snow / rock situations and they hold up quite well. I do sharpen them regularly.

    #787736
    christoph benells
    717 Posts
    #787852
    96avs01
    874 Posts

    Thanks @buell @christoph-benells for the feedback and suggestions. For the price of that nano-steel from Camp I can grab a pair of G20s and eat the extra weight (holy crap they want some coin for those Camps). Sounds like Petzl has instituted a mix/match system for their crampons this year, so may look further into their options. Also intrigued by the new Grivel Skitour and Skirace options, though fear they may have the same issue with lack of clearance on the front point but look to be better than the Haute Route. We’ll see how those fair, otherwise I guess I’ll go with the 390s. Thanks gents

    165 Venture Divide/Spark Frankenburners/La Sportiva Spantiks
    163W Jones Solution/Phantom Alphas/Dynafit TLT5s
    162 Furberg

    Chris

    #787868
    HansGLudwig
    601 Posts

    I’ve never used a leash and it’s never been a problem. . . except for the one time it was (but that wasn’t a problem endemic to a dynasplit). During Avy 1, with a bunch of Ski Patrollers, I stepped out to go from coarse to fine search and inserted my board into the snow with the topsheet downhill. Gravity did it’s thing; the board rotated downhill and morphed into a missile straight toward my instructors.
    I caught a lot of sh*t for it and I owed everyone at least a beer. It has never been a problem since and (as long as my brain has anything to do with it) won’t be a problem in the future.
    I used to ski with leashes (no brakes). They were more faff than they are worth. . . until you loose a ski (which I never did).
    I have never, ever heard of someone popping out while touring. It’s one of those risks you have to make the call.

    Be sure to bookmark Splitboard.com's Recent Activity page...
    http://splitboard.com/activity-2/

    #787899
    Jason4
    442 Posts

    My fiance and I have a crampon problem… well, it’s really more of a quiver than a problem, right? We both have CAMP 390s but she’s put a lot more miles on her’s than I have on mine. No problems and they do fit TLT5s well, even in her size (24.5). She climbed a bunch of Cascades volcanoes last May with some of her friends and liked them for that. We also have G12 straps, G14 full autos, BD Contact straps (old steel), BD Sabretoothes full auto, and maybe another pair somewhere in the gear room. I’d still stick with the CAMPs for volcanoes and I also appreciate the Grivel steel. That said, I’ll probably try to sell off everything but the CAMPS sometime soon and pick up pieces from Petzl a la carte so we both have full straps and full step in options in 12 point horizontal fronts and vertical fronts.

    As for leashes, I have B&D leashes (had, she “borrowed” them for the volcano tour and claimed them!). I’d like to say that I’ve never tested them but that’s not true. I usually put on the leashes anytime I have ski crampons on and took a fall that way a couple of springs ago. I managed to arrest the fall (yay, Whippet!) and one ski popped in the process even with them locked into the climbing position. I was able to get toes into the ice and immediately switched to boot crampons for the rest of that gully. The leash saved me from walking to the bottom and finding a ski in the trees.

    #787904
    96avs01
    874 Posts

    @jason4 That’s quite a pon quiver! I’ve been able to find some Grivel parts available separately, but would like if the entire line was a la carte like the Petzl approach. Though it may only take them a year or two to follow suit, so I’m going to hold on to my G12/G14s with hope they choose to do so. Think I’ll keep an eye out for a deal on the 390s and wait for the reports on the Skitour. Thanks

    165 Venture Divide/Spark Frankenburners/La Sportiva Spantiks
    163W Jones Solution/Phantom Alphas/Dynafit TLT5s
    162 Furberg

    Chris

    #787930
    Jason4
    442 Posts

    It’s really not that many, since it’s split between the two of us it’s a pair of splitmo crampons (the CAMPs), a pair of general mountaineering crampons for summer adventures (the strap ons), and a pair of ice crampons (step ins) for each of us. It’s an added bonus that we can mix and match toes and heels between the three pairs to try semi-autos or other quirky stuff. We’ll probably re-do the quiver when the new Petzls are out since she has a really hard time fitting step-ins to the toe of her Nepal Evos.

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