Forums Splitboards Furberg Snowboards
Viewing 20 posts - 21 through 40 (of 324 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #642952

    Actually snowman1, i think this board will be pretty easy to handle in the forest… It has a lot of taper in both ends, lots of setback and a huge rocker, and all of these features will give it playfulnes. And the board is actually pretty soft, much softer than my Mojo-rx, and softer than my Lib-tech travis rice board too.

    #642953
    Taylor
    791 Posts

    As Barrows noted, many of us spent many years rocking the trees before deep side-cuts came on the scene in the late 1980s. While I’d be interested to feel how it rides there, I’d have absolutely no hesitation taking this deck into the trees–in fact I’d want one that’s longer so that it floats better, planes at lower speeds and board angles and more capably handles fore and aft weight throws. Taken together, I think the rocker, early taper shovel and tail and taper likely make this a perfectly capable tree board.

    @sun_rocket

    #642954
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    Completely agree with Taylor (as usual). Sidecut is not necessary to make quick turns, especially in powder and with rocker tips/tails.
    Additionally, with the long radius, alternative techniques are much easier to apply: pivoting, smearing, slarving, etc: These techniques can make line adjustment (terrain avoidance) much easier and quicker without having to make an actual “turn”.
    Now packed, resort riding is a totally different thing-as would be some very popular BC locations like Loveland Pass, where the snow is often in the same condition as at a resort (packed base, tracked out)!

    #642955
    Taylor
    791 Posts

    Snowman 1: You should consider throwing up a separate thread dedicated to the Donek tree board. I think there are some cool and novel ideas bound up in that design also that people would be interested to hear about.

    @sun_rocket

    #642956
    Snowman1
    63 Posts

    Its really more intended to be a broad/all conditions board. Big variable sidecut, super light weight carbon construction, and rocker designed and built to handle the largest range of riding conditions(glades, trees, chutes) and snow conditions imagineable. Most of the boards I have ridden are good in one area or another but lack in overall ability or shoddy construction. This deck is built to excel in the broadest range of conditions possible and handle them all with gusto. I wanted something for the BC that handle it all and not leave me wishing that I was riding something else.

    #642957
    yogisnow
    42 Posts

    Good read!!
    Ridden a 168 never summer summit cambered split in the trees with out an issue. Actually loved it so i bought the new R&C version in a 160 because of the claimed float. This design and length is not helpful in the BC at all. Too short and R&C acts like a barge and is very slow on low angle run outs. Great in steep powder.
    A shame but it will stay at home this year.
    Have a rossi experience split 159 for not too deep days and tight tree bound escapade. Great ride this one.
    At speed the rossi seems to bite in hard when turning and has threw me on one occasion which lead to me ripping out the pucks. 😥
    Wanted the 173 for more stability at speed and the deep powder fields of Asahidake and Tokachidake.
    Time will only tell if it will be what i am after.
    The only concern i have is that for what has been said by Eirik is that the board is soft in flex.
    Daniel claimed that it is on the stiffer side of flex..

    #642958

    Glad to see the interest for the boards!

    About the discussion on the performance in the trees with the long turning radius. Ideal shape for deep powder is fully reversed sidecut and and full rocker profile (like the Libtech Banana Hammock). A board like this is very quick and easy to turn in powder. Turning radius is not needed in powder. But boards like this does not work at all when you hit hard snow or ice.

    The rocker revolution started in 2002 with the Volant Spatula, a ski with inversed sidecut and full rocker. I was fantastic in powder but sucked on hard packed snow. Today almost all freeride skis have a combination of sidecut and taper. And rocker towards the nose and tail. A shape that is great for soft snow, but actually works well also on hard packed.

    The snowboard industry was 10 years behind the skiing industry until recently… 🙂

    //Daniel Furberg
    furbergsnowboards.com
    facebook.com/furbergsnowboards

    #642959
    Bdawg
    9 Posts

    @furbergsnowboards wrote:

    Glad to see the interest for the boards!

    About the discussion on the performance in the trees with the long turning radius. Ideal shape for deep powder is fully reversed sidecut and and full rocker profile (like the Libtech Banana Hammock). A board like this is very quick and easy to turn in powder. Turning radius is not needed in powder. But boards like this does not work at all when you hit hard snow or ice.

    The rocker revolution started in 2002 with the Volant Spatula, a ski with inversed sidecut and full rocker. I was fantastic in powder but sucked on hard packed snow. Today almost all freeride skis have a combination of sidecut and taper. And rocker towards the nose and tail. A shape that is great for soft snow, but actually works well also on hard packed.

    The snowboard industry was 10 years behind the skiing industry until recently… 🙂

    //Daniel Furberg
    furbergsnowboards.com
    facebook.com/furbergsnowboards

    Uh…you must mean the rocker re-revolution. Snowboards had rocker in the 80s, homie, but thanks for stopping by and good luck with Furberg. The boards look great.

    #642960

    Rocker is nothing new. But I believe that the combination of a center section with moderate turning radius and reversed turning radius (taper) towards the nose and tail is.

    Glad to hear that you like the look of the boards!

    //Daniel Furberg
    furbergsnowboards.com
    facebook.com/furbergsnowboards

    #642961
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    I must say I agree with Daniel, his boards are definitely something which has not been offered before for snowboarders, and I must congratulate him on going forward and taking the risk of starting a company to make these designs available.
    I have been looking for a board with this type of design for a few years now, but every company I suggested it to just continued to make the same old designs, or they added rocker to the same old shapes and called it something revolutionary. No one really wanted to take advantage of rocker, and combine it with a forward thinking shape to offer more stability, control, and turn type options for the rider. 8-10 m sidecut radii make no sense for advanced riders who know how to turn, just as experienced skiers do not use deep sidecut, or “parabolic” skis-those designs are for intermediates, making it easy for them to learn to carve at moderate speeds on groomed resort runs.
    Thanks Daniel!

    #642962
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    Ordered a 173 for delivery in the New Year. Very excited to have this board. It will be going under the knife right away, as I have no need for a solid backcountry board. I am going to be very careful to keep the weight down. No inside edge, carbon fiber sidewall addition, skis screws for old style DIY pucks, direct mount Dynafit toe pieces, Black Diamond split skins.
    Lots of surface area, and an easy to ride board = more fun in the pow!

    #642963
    iriecoyote
    291 Posts

    @barrows wrote:

    Ordered a 173 for delivery in the New Year. Very excited to have this board. It will be going under the knife right away, as I have no need for a solid backcountry board. I am going to be very careful to keep the weight down. No inside edge, carbon fiber sidewall addition, skis screws for old style DIY pucks, direct mount Dynafit toe pieces, Black Diamond split skins.
    Lots of surface area, and an easy to ride board = more fun in the pow!

    Awesome! Looking forward to the write-up.

    #642964
    yogisnow
    42 Posts

    Just had a 173 cut with water jet!!!
    Will work on it next week.
    Barrows what is with the carbon sidewall??
    Sounds interesting…

    #642965
    Snurfer
    1448 Posts

    I’m very keen to hear what you guys have to say about the Furberg splits you’re making. :headbang:

    Shark Snowsurf Chuna
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    Spark R&D Arc

    #642966
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    @yogisnow wrote:

    Just had a 173 cut with water jet!!!
    Will work on it next week.
    Barrows what is with the carbon sidewall??
    Sounds interesting…

    Yogi: I prefer boards on the stiffer side, and I figured cutting a solid board is going to soften the flex some. I think that covering the cut with uni carbon (longitudinally) should help stiffen things back up after the cut, and do a good job protecting the core. I have a bunch of uni carbon tape around that should work fine for this (from other projects).
    How much stiffness did you lose on the 173 from cutting it?

    #642967
    yogisnow
    42 Posts

    That sounds like a very good idea in deed.
    The flex rating of the board initially was about 7 tops.
    Always hard to tell how much you loose until you put it back together so maybe a 6 now at best.
    So i think the carbon will help this little dilemma.

    Do you intend on epoxying/glueing the carbon straight to the cut sidewall or taking out some of the core and use thicker carbon inlay between the top sheet and base?
    What about the repeated flex of skinning and riding with respect to the carbon staying attached?

    #642968
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    The carbon I have is longitudinal fibers, bound together as a thin “tape” about 1″ wide. Google “carbon tape” and anyone can find different varieties of this stuff, generally used for reinforcement when building boats or planes.
    I do not plan to remove any material. Just set the cut board with the cut facing up and the top and bottom sheets masked off. Then spread an even layer of epoxy over the cut edge with a spreader. Then lay a single layer of the carbon tape along the edge longitudinally. And then wet out the carbon with epoxy. with good epoxy (WEST) and clean surfaces this should be just as durable as any wet layup snowboard construction. The carbon is thin, and will add very little difference to the width, not even enough to compensate for the difference lost in the cut.

    This approach should protect the cut edge of the board very well, and bring back some of stiffness lost in cutting.

    #642969
    yogisnow
    42 Posts

    Great, a friend and i will do 3 boards and tell you how it goes!!
    Furberg, Rossi and Arbor Abacus.
    Thanks Barrows!!

    #642970
    Zude
    367 Posts

    Durability would be the question i have about the the carbon. But you can always repair with epoxy. I’m looking forward to the ride reports. If you had the money I’m sure Donek could make a split cheaper (than Furbergs) with similar ride characteristics as Furberg (even if you are basically copying his design).

    #642971
    Scooby2
    611 Posts

    barrows, I have some carbon sidewall boards and have 3 pieces of advice:

    1. Can you get some real ski/board resin and heat cure it, it is way stiffer and tougher,

    2. after laminating the rails, sand them smooth without going through the fibers then paint on a thin layer of SB-120? or any epoxy resin for surfboards with a UV block in the resin. otherwise it will yellow up a bit. see fiberglasssupply.com you could also add black tint to your resin that you laminate with instead

    3. stop your carbon strips about a half an inch before the tip and tail so if it gets bonked, it wont start to peel, esp if you don’t use the toughened heat-cured version of epoxy. Cut up a bunch of shards of carbon, make a paste with the shards and some premixed epoxy, paint his on the last half inch areas and press it smooth with some clear tape, like 3m wide packing tape, sand that smooth.

Viewing 20 posts - 21 through 40 (of 324 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.