Dynafit TLT6 MOD Thread

[WhitePine 502 Posts]

@neni – I don’t know if that is necessarily a male/female thing. Based on the color scheme of your boot it looks like you got the women’s version. I’m sure the boot designers accounted for the differences in anatomy. But having not seen them side by side and can’t say definitively.

However, your experience sounds very similar to my first time on hardboots. I went to one of my local resorts after dark and skinned up so that I test the system without having to navigate a bobsled run or trees on an untested setup. I only had the splitboard bindings at the time and no touring gear so I had to bring two sets of equipment. I also didn’t want to spent the money till I was committed so I skinned up with skis on and with a snowboard on my back. So long story short, I had unmodified ski boots. My experience was similar to yours because the initial forward lean setting for skiing is very aggressive for snowboarding. The equivalent to setting up your highback so you are permanently in a squat position. My natural riding position hated this and I was constantly fighting the boot/highback so I could stand more upright. The consequence was that it was digging hard into my calf. The very first mod I made was to DECREASE forward lean. So I kept grinding down the forward lean plate before each outing to dial it in where I wanted it. I also added more forward lean but I felt the more important thing was the rearward lean.

I would not recommend you cut down the cuff of the boot because this might just shift the pressure to another spot on your leg. I would mess with the forward lean mod first. Then, if your calve isn’t still in pain, work on lateral flex mods.

[neni 43 Posts]

WhitePine wrote:

The consequence was that it was digging hard into my calf. The very first mod I made was to DECREASE forward lean. So I kept grinding down the forward lean plate before each outing to dial it in where I wanted it. I also added more forward lean but I felt the more important thing was the rearward lean.

Thanks! To be sure I understand this correctly: you filed the lower part of the plate, correct? There’s almost no spare material to file off on my plate – only upwards would be spare aluminium. Downwards, there’s only abt 3mm aluminium till the screw, but the existing hole is on the same level as the plastig i.e. I’d have to file away also plastic to get a longer opening.

Jones Solution 152 / Phantom Alpha / Dynafit TLT6 Mountain CL
(Spark Afterburner / Deeluxe XV)

[WhitePine 502 Posts]

Yeah you might end up removing plastic. Look at the first couple of posts in this thread for ideas on that. Or you can change the whole forward lean plate like Marc did. I did cut away plastic on mine.

[buell 534 Posts]

neni wrote:

Hi guys
I’m new to AT boot splitboarding, got the new TLT6 with Phantoms/Dynafit bindings and did the first tour with them today. Mixed feelings… ascent was simply brilliant; it’s night and day. So I really would like to love this AT system, but… the downhill was pretty painful. Felt like a bench vice trying to crush shins n calves… I reckon I can improve this harsh sensation by modifying the fwd lean aluminium plate, so there’s more give, but the too much too rigid fwd lean actually buggers me more:
The hind boot rim bites directly into my calves making any heelside turn or – even worse – traverses PITA. (I’m a girl… my calve muscles are lower attached on the leg that those of guys).
I’ve seen many mods mentioned in this thread which increase the fwd lean; but is there anything to decrease the lean?

Or has anyone ever cut off the upper boot rim? The entire upper part holding the power strap. What’s your take, would this improve the calve bite issue but cause other issues? (I’m bit nervous to just cut as I’m new to AT boots and mods)

My wife had the same problem with the back of the boot hurting her calf. Yes, we cut off the plastic that holds the power strap and it fixed the problem for her. I had no issues with the stock height but cut the powerstrap plastic on my boots anyway and did not like the mod. It can go both ways but I expect it will help you.

If you have not modded the forward lean plate to flex forward, the ride will improve immensely once you do. Do it in stages. You do not need the upper screw if you want to extend the opening that much.

You have plenty of room to reduce your forward lean. Three millimeters will be quite a bit. You might do that in a couple of stages too. Modify a bit, ride, modify, ride. You will remove plastic as well as aluminum to expand the hole up or down.

I did some inbounds testing and reduced my forward lean (filed the bottom of the walk/ride plate) because it felt better. Turns out though, on back country steeps, I needed that forward lean. I got new walk/ride plates from Dynafit and started over.

The Phantom boot mod kit will allow you to move your lower buckle over the ankle and to cut the slots into the sides of the lower cuff which will soften the boot laterally and make them more forgiving.

[Marc 16 Posts]

I once did a rough calculation where 1mm at the alu backstop=1 degree of inclination.
You can also use a smartphone app like Clinometer to get an idea of the angles on your previous setup vs the TLT6.
But of course making small changes + test riding is the best option.

[neni 43 Posts]

buell wrote:

My wife had the same problem with the back of the boot hurting her calf. Yes, we cut off the plastic that holds the power strap and it fixed the problem for her. I had no issues with the stock height but cut the powerstrap plastic on my boots anyway and did not like the mod. It can go both ways but I expect it will help you.

Do you have a picture of this?
Did she mod the fwd lean first to decreas it but this still didn’t help with the calve pinch?

Jones Solution 152 / Phantom Alpha / Dynafit TLT6 Mountain CL
(Spark Afterburner / Deeluxe XV)

[buell 534 Posts]

neni wrote:

buell wrote:

My wife had the same problem with the back of the boot hurting her calf. Yes, we cut off the plastic that holds the power strap and it fixed the problem for her. I had no issues with the stock height but cut the powerstrap plastic on my boots anyway and did not like the mod. It can go both ways but I expect it will help you.

Do you have a picture of this?
Did she mod the fwd lean first to decreas it but this still didn’t help with the calve pinch?

I don’t have a photo. We just cut it off flush with the line of the top of the boot.

The stock forward lean is fine for her, so we did not decrease it.

[dimi 9 Posts]

Something to keep in mind is the boots will take a good 10 days at least to get broken in. I’ve got about 25-30 days on mine in the last 2 years and they are still getting better. It does also take a bit of time to get used to the riding sensation of hard boots. My first impression was that initiating turns was much more responsive than what I what I was used to and I had to adjust my riding style to that. I also rode mod-less up until 2 weeks ago.

Now that I have modified them (no cutting yet) I could never go back to soft-boots. They’ll grow on you as you mod them and break them in and eventually you’ll realize how next-level the performance is, uphill or downhill.

Enjoy.

[Sean 2 Posts]

Hey guys,

Thought I’d touch base here and see if there’s any help out there…I recently chewed thru the last of my coated steel butt connectors and I also think I’m getting to the limit of my replacement plastic coated wire that came with the boot mod kit for tlt6’s that John made.

I’m wondering if anyone knows of the specific wire used and also the stoppers? I’m heading to Japan next week and don’t want to be stuck there incase it pulls thru on crimp again…

Thanks in advance!

[SkateBananas 178 Posts]

Sean wrote:

Hey guys,

Thought I’d touch base here and see if there’s any help out there…I recently chewed thru the last of my coated steel butt connectors and I also think I’m getting to the limit of my replacement plastic coated wire that came with the boot mod kit for tlt6’s that John made.

I’m wondering if anyone knows of the specific wire used and also the stoppers? I’m heading to Japan next week and don’t want to be stuck there incase it pulls thru on crimp again…

Thanks in advance!

Your local hardware store, Home Depot, Lowes, etc should have coated stainless steel wire and the appropriate sized crimps. If you don’t have access to that a quick amazon search found a bunch of options.

[Sean 2 Posts]

Thanks for the prompt reply mate, sorted the wire @ Home Depot and also purchased a bunch more 14-16 gauge non insulated butt connectors. I’ll see how that hold up.

Do you think crimps may be a better option?

Thanks again.

[SkateBananas 178 Posts]

Id look for something like these, they should hold up a bit longer

http://www.riggingwarehouse.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=115-ASL187&gclid=CjwKCAiAm7LSBRBBEiwAvL1-LyXw7_B7Uq8ez47AUCFXbxOfSOrxTXnqaEe0YDfS0GSJfMpVVleNaBoCDR4QAvD_BwE

[Matt Tench 6 Posts]

Does anyone happen to know the internal size of the lean plate hole? Am away from home but wanted to buy a file of correct size so I can do the lean mod this weekend when I get back.

Had first day on tlt6 un modded in resort to practice and found it harder to get the toe edge for sure.

Am riding with tops tight including powerstraps, tried it without and seemed very loose vs my malamutes.

Didn’t so far feel the need for lateral/ medial changes, though getting knees inward was hard (also assume that is affecting toe edge hold)

[karkis 269 Posts]

Matt Tench wrote:

Does anyone happen to know the internal size of the lean plate hole? Am away from home but wanted to buy a file of correct size so I can do the lean mod this weekend when I get back.

Had first day on tlt6 un modded in resort to practice and found it harder to get the toe edge for sure.

the hole is about 1/2″ (13mm) wide

“harder to get the toe edge” ?? if you mean initiating a turn onto your toe side, you might need to increase the fwd lean, esp on your back foot

“affecting toe edge hold” … if thats your whole problem, you might want to use the tongues. they come with a stiff tongue now but you can soften them up with holes and or slits

never summer snowboards
phantom splitboard bindings
dynafit touring
atomic boots

[Ola 2 Posts]

Slightly off topic but I figured this thread would probably be the best place…

I’m looking for a pair of tlt5 or tlt6 tongues for a 27.5 shell, I lost one and hoping to get a few more season out of the boots. If you have a pair that you’re willing to part with I’d be really, really happy to buy them.

Fingers crossed. 🙂

[Graeme 1 Posts]

Hey all,

So I am in a bit of a predicament. I rode a pair of 28 tlt6s last year and while I loved the ride of the hard boot, found they were too small. I happened across a really cheap pair of 29 tlt6s recently and purchased them online without photos. Well… they are the performance (carbon cuff) edition. I was wondering if I could just switch the cuffs? Looking at the two, I see no obvious differance in cuff sizing and fit.

[daway 23 Posts]

I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, especially if you’re already doing the Phantom mod. There should be enough flex in the cuff that even if it’s slightly smaller, once you put it all back together you should be fine.

Also..what’s up with this forum? I did a huge post detailing my phantom mod, doesn’t seem like it landed anywhere. Will try again, but it’s definitely buggy!!

[SkateBananas 178 Posts]

Ola wrote:

Slightly off topic but I figured this thread would probably be the best place…

I’m looking for a pair of tlt5 or tlt6 tongues for a 27.5 shell, I lost one and hoping to get a few more season out of the boots. If you have a pair that you’re willing to part with I’d be really, really happy to buy them.

Fingers crossed.

I think I have some from size 28.5s, if your interested let me know.

[splitchef 41 Posts]

I’ve got some tlt6 size 27. Let Me know

[Ola 2 Posts]

@splitchef and @skatebananas I’ve already managed to source a pair from another forum member so I’m all set, thanks anyway!