Forums Bindings Burton Race Plate Mod
Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 23 total)
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  • #575572
    Sog-Nar
    24 Posts

    I recently modified a burton race plate to the voile slider plate and thought I would post some pictures of the build for others. I know that this is a topic that has been out there for some time, but I didn’t see many posts with pictures in older threads. I want to thank Barrows for all his help and assistance.

    I started by measuring the placement of the bindings, marking their position, and then drilling out two holes (on the right side of the picture) and filing two existing holes (left of picture). The voile slider plate is very soft aluminum and easy to drill and file. I have a pair of Mondo 28 boots for this setup.

    At the suggestion of Barrows, I placed a 2.5 degree inward cant underneath all the burton race plates before attaching them to the voile slider plate. The cant can be purchased at Tognar.com in varying angles.

    Cant view side

    Cant view from above

    Next I attached the buton plate to the voile slider plate, using the bolt that came with the burton plate and a “t-nut” from the voile slider plate. Amazingly, they fit each other perfectly.

    Barrows also suggested I consider raising the heel of my back foot a few millimeters. I used a piece of wood finished with epoxy.

    Heel lift

    Burton race plate and voile slider plate

    The bolts under the slider plate were too long so I used a hack saw and file to cut them flush.

    They were flush after filing.

    Lucky Trails!

    #646409
    JimmyC
    351 Posts

    Nicely done!!!

    #646410
    akmooserider
    11 Posts

    Nice work! Thanks for the documenting this.

    It looks like a close fit with a size 28 shell in regards to the length of the slider.

    How much does it weigh?

    #646411
    NuclearBob
    1 Posts

    Great job – Nuclear Grade work. Nice creative tooling choice. End result looks good – you have to let us know how it works.

    #646412
    Sog-Nar
    24 Posts

    @akmooserider wrote:

    Nice work! Thanks for the documenting this.

    It looks like a close fit with a size 28 shell in regards to the length of the slider.

    How much does it weigh?

    Here are weights of my kit:

    Pair of burton race plate mod binders….= 2 lbs 4.4 oz (1.032 kg)

    Pair of TLT5 Mountain boots…………….= 5 lbs 11.5 oz (2.594 kg)

    166 Voile Mojo with Dynafit toe pieces (2) and spark dynafit adapters (2) = 9 lbs 8 oz (4.309 kg)

    Voile SD tractor skins (approx.) …………………….= 1 lb 4 oz (0.567 kg)

    Weight on the descent………………………..= 17 lbs 7.9 oz (7.938 kg)

    Weight on the up with skins…………………………….= 16 lbs 7.5 oz (7.470 kg)

    #646413
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    I save even more weight by direct mounting the Dynafit toes with ski screws, no Spark adapters needed, then use Black Diamond split skins and save another half pound.

    #646414
    Crooked Thumbs
    8 Posts

    Do you think the slider plate would be long enough for a size 29 TLT5?
    I fit my 29 Megarides in the original Raceplate base plate and compared the length from toe to heel to the length of the sliders. It seems just a tad to long for the bails to stay locked between the slider and toe/heel plate. However, the Garmont’s sole length seems around 8mm longer than the TLT5, which is 317mm. I haven’t bought the boots yet (but tried them on to confirm the size) and don’t really want to start drilling holes in the slider unless I feel it could work. The size 28 TLT5 sole length is 307mm. Do you think the slider could accommodate another 10mm without the bottom of the bails hanging over too much to be safe?

    #646415
    fitit
    343 Posts

    Maybe these longer plates would work for you
    http://wildschnee.de/index.php/tipps/xxlslider

    #646416
    Sog-Nar
    24 Posts

    Crooked Thumbs,

    I think the race plate mod could work for size 29 TLT5.

    In the TLT5 thread Barrows said,”Yeah, the mounting holes do not line up, so the holes in the slider plate have to be filed, or in some cases, new holes drilled to fit the Raceplate toe and heel pieces. Also note that the slider plate is only long enough to accommodate boot sizes up to about 28.5/29 with a direct mount.”

    I guess you won’t know till you try it. Let us know how it works out.

    #646417
    JasonS99
    5 Posts

    The other day I was checking out the website for the Berkshire East ski resort. I saw the following page for pure boarding
    http://www.berkshireeast.com/pureboard
    I noticed the binding they were using was called the Speed CC. It sounded alot like the Ibex Speed TC a copy of the original Burton Race Plates. I contacted the company about the similarity and received the following response.

    “its all still made at the same factory as the burton binding , it is the old burton binding , we just made colors and the bails are heattreatet so they last a lot longer . yes its the same produkt as bomber has”

    Carve Company http://www.carvecompany.com

    You can buy the following parts individually
    Speed CC toe and heal bails 69.00 euro
    Speed CC Aluminum Toeplate 14.00 euro
    Speed CC Aluminum Heelplate 14.00 euro
    Speed CC Set of screws 5,00 euro

    They also have different colors black, red, orange for the bails and plates.

    The guy that stocks their stuff in the US can be contacted here.
    Ray Pesho

    Even after the conversion that is less new than I paid for my used burton plates I used for my current race plate mod which is working pretty good so far..

    I mostly followed the directions from Sog-Nar and Barrows

    So far I have used tognar to purchase the 2.5 degree cants

    I made the rear heal lift from the following, I think it mat be the same material Barrows used.
    DragonPlate Carbon Fiber Birch Core ~ 5/32″ x 6″ x 6

    I am looking at switching to titanium bolts, I think these may work. http://www.jerseycycles.com/Product-Pages/Titanium.html 6mm Titanium Countersunk Bolts

    If you are reading this Barrows mind telling where you got yours from?

    First time building bindings myself, so use information above at your own risk 🙂

    #646418
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    I know of two good sources for various titanium hardware:

    racebolts.com

    redmist.com

    #646419
    Powder_Rider
    498 Posts

    Sog-nar and Barrows:

    How thick is the heel lift (or Toe Lift)?

    I finally scored a pair Burton Race plates from eBay at a reasonable price.

    #646420
    barrows
    1490 Posts

    @powder_rider wrote:

    Sog-nar and Barrows:

    How thick is the heel lift (or Toe Lift)?

    I finally scored a pair Burton Race plates from eBay at a reasonable price.

    It is custom, and so is up to you. Whether or not you want to use any lifts or cants is completely your choice, and will depend on your boot set up, how you run your stance, and your style. Personally I run Stance widths from 21.25″-21.75″ or so, and angles around 27 degrees in front and 9-12 degrees in back. With that set up and my boots I prefer 2.5 degree cants on both bindings, and just a very slight (around 2.5 mm) heel lift under the rear foot heel piece-this just brings my rear knee where I want it to be when I am in a neutral position (not pressing on my boots in any direction). But what might work best for you is something you need to determine yourself-I would start with no lifts, and just a little cant, and then adjust from there to suit your set up and riding style.

    #646421
    Powder_Rider
    498 Posts

    Barrows Your above post is exactly what I was looking for.

    #646422
    Powder_Rider
    498 Posts

    PSA: Burton Race Plate Bindings for Sale on Ebay, (not my listing),

    Bidding ends tomorrow.

    See: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Burton-Race-Plate-Bindings-Carving-/251043583449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a735d15d9#ht_500wt_1076

    I just purchased a pair of these bindings on EBAY from CAVAH. The Race plates should arrive in a couple of days.

    #646423
    Powder_Rider
    498 Posts

    FYI: It is important to carpet-surf (aka: standing in the bindings with your hard boots on) the Burton Race Plates bindings on a snowboard, before making the modification to the Voile Slider-plates and adding the Burton Race Plate toe and heel pieces.

    Anytime, I have tried adjusting plates bindings without standing in the bindings, I always seem to incur a bit of slop in the toe bail tension and I would have to adjust the toe bail a few millimeters to get the correct toe-bail tension.

    You’ll want to get the correct tension in the toe-bail to HB boot to heel-bail connection. Measure the base plate hole pattern of Burton Race binding, where the, or use the base-plate as a guide to mark or drill the binding holes onto the Voile-Slider Plate. Measurement / hole pattern is from where the screws of the Burton Race toe and heel pieces are mounted into the Burton Race base-plate.

    #646424
    moridinbg
    151 Posts

    I am going to build this thing over Christmas and I am going to use the parts from Carvers Paradise. The question is do I need anything else apart from the bails – Rear and front?
    @jasons99 mentions “Speed CC Aluminum Toeplate” which seems to be this. What is it for?

    Also will the slider plate realisticly accomodate a 29 boot (TLT5)? Sometimes I hate those big feet…

    #646425
    karkis
    270 Posts

    mo ridin you will need those aluminum plates, toe and heel, they hold the bails down, the bails will be sandwiched b/w the slider plate and the toe and heel Al plates. Look at the pictures in the first post of this thread.

    the slider plates do accommodate a 29 TLT 5, but you will have to drill more holes. for the toe end (with the pin) you can’t go too far forward as the t nuts will block the pin from sliding thru the plate. if you position the t nuts so their widest diameter is perpendicular to the long axis of the plate you’ll get the most clearance, and you can file the top edge down a bit on the t nut if you set it up a bit too tight. The heel end has more space, no pin, you might find it hard to fine tune your stance to the centre of the deck but the offset won’t be much.

    also, you might think it would be smart to use the outside pair of holes on the Al toe and heel plates, so as to get a wider stronger base of support. Don’t do it!
    only use the inside holes or the t nuts will stop the plate from sliding over the pucks. not that i know anybody who f@ct that up!!! 🙄 😳 🙄

    never summer snowboards
    phantom splitboard bindings
    dynafit touring
    atomic boots

    #646426
    moridinbg
    151 Posts

    What 130 euro gets you from CarversParadise.com. Actually, from the manufacturer’s website – http://www.carvecompany.com it comes a little bit more expensive.
    The cover plates seem too bulky to me.
    I am making my own slider plate, with a bit more contact surface on the board and from more rigid material (7051), hoping to be ready by mid-January. Probably with a set of custom pucks. Again with more contact surgace and from stronger plastic (similar to the the one on wildschnee.de).

    #646427
    patr
    7 Posts

    Just a couple of comments on this

    I ride pretty hard on my gear, have been fruitbooter for 20+ years (really), splitting for 5-6. I’ve been stuck in really shitty places with broken bindings and have had to posthole out of long, far away shitty spots. in any case,

    I originally started with a direct bolt on of the burton/ibex/cc toe and heel pieces to the voile plates, but this had a few major problems (for me anyways, not sure about anyone else)

    1) flex, the plate was nowhere near strong enough to take heavy landings or heel side impacts on rocks, ice etc (no, we dont hit pow all the time), so on big impacts you would flex out. You’d also feel this on a hard surface on big load heelsides, it would feel like your toe was floating left to right (it actually was) as the flex was taking the load off of the bail. Its easier to repro this on hardpack but since we dont really ride that, but that hardpack condition does manifest itself on really steep icy picthes or just crappy batches of crust etc.
    2) even if you fix #1, the mod didnt’t allow for emergency relocation of stripped holes/bolts which you can again get from heavy jump landings or big impacts. Which is inevitable with any sort of setup based on this, but the answer is to have extra holes that you can relocate to in a jiffy. If you’ve ridden the plates in any sort of heavy impact environment (racing, big drops, snow-X) you know that this happens with them

    my latest incarnation is a tig weld of the original burton/ibex/cc base plate to the voile plate. this solves #1 and #2. not pretty, but worked to solve those 2 issues anyways. Its way stiffer so way less torque releases. and if you do blow out the bolts or strip the holes, you just move a half hole up /down (side effect is its adjustable for boot size). The baseplate adds a few grams but eliminates the t-bolts, in anycase, if found it to be way more reliable than the direct toe/heel bolt on

    just thought I’d mention this

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