Forums DIY and Mods better heel lifts
Viewing 11 posts - 21 through 31 (of 31 total)
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  • #588083
    sauerboarder
    26 Posts

    Got a pair of these on clearance for about $10 at Coast Mountain Sports. They’ve been working great for me.

    #588084
    The Fonz
    16 Posts

    Just mounted those same ones on my home splitty, but I think your gonna run into a problem if you keep the shorter pointy one right under your binding.

    #588085
    cascadianwarrior
    46 Posts

    @The Fonz wrote:

    Just mounted those same ones on my home splitty, but I think your gonna run into a problem if you keep the shorter pointy one right under your binding.

    How so? And if you have run into an issue, what have you done to modify/resolve it? I haven’t had a chance to get out on mine since I mounted them up. :scratch:

    #588086
    Snowmoneil
    131 Posts

    Finally got around to putting some legit vinyl material on my climbing bars after running ducktape on them all year! Stoked about not hearing the metal to metal sound anymore.

    ^ 😯 Holy sh%t, im bored today!

    #588087
    cascadianwarrior
    46 Posts

    ^Yeah, I did the same thing w/ mine. Haven’t run into any issue w/ the lower climbing bar, in fact I keep it up most of the time and just knock the high bar back and forth. I’ve have heard that there is an issue w/ these and the Mr. Chomps crampons. That was going to be my next purchase, anyone have feedback?

    #588088
    ARKANA
    41 Posts

    what did you guys use as far as tubing and covering up the metal on those climbing bars? i bought some random vinyl tubing from the local hardware store. for the life of me I cannot squeeze that small piece all the way up the bar and over the corners.

    shrink wrap tubing? if there is such a thing?

    i’ve even tried slicing most of the tube, sliding it on the bars and then melting it back together. nothing seems to hold.

    #588089
    cascadianwarrior
    46 Posts

    ^I picked up some tube from Home Depot and had a bitch of a time getting it on and around the corners. In the end, use lots of water-based lube or soft soap and needle nosed pliars.

    Regarding the smaller ‘pointy’ heel lift, I did just notice that it pokes up just enough that your baseplate won’t sit flat. As such, there is now a little divit in the baseplates of my Spark bindings. Anyone have a sugestion other than pounding it flat? I looked at going back to the Voile bar but that one pretty much splits the difference between the G3 low and high bars.

    #588090
    singlewhitecaveman
    242 Posts

    @cascadianwarrior wrote:

    ^I picked up some tube from Home Depot and had a bitch of a time getting it on and around the corners. In the end, use lots of water-based lube or soft soap and needle nosed pliars.

    Regarding the smaller ‘pointy’ heel lift, I did just notice that it pokes up just enough that your baseplate won’t sit flat. As such, there is now a little divit in the baseplates of my Spark bindings. Anyone have a sugestion other than pounding it flat? I looked at going back to the Voile bar but that one pretty much splits the difference between the G3 low and high bars.

    Put the tube in a glass of boiling water for 10 seconds or so: it just slips right on after that, then cools off and holds tight.

    On the second point, I set it up with with G3 tall bar, and the Voile (I call it “medium”) bar. I perosnally found the small bar sounded great in theory, but I just didn’t use it that much. However, i really like having the standard bar for everyday use and then the tall bar for when i need to slip into 4WD low. Doesn;t eliminate the problem you’re talking about, but reduces the occurence significantly (unless you enjoy regular, uniformly steep, ascents).

    Also, just to throw it out there for the Spark Ignition II users, i noticed no interference at all with the bar hitting the bridge under the heel, therefore I didn;t need to shim it (as i’ve seen in another post). FYI, this is a set up with G3 dual risers, and a prior khyber (160cm).

    #588091
    Snurfer
    1406 Posts

    @cascadianwarrior wrote:

    Regarding the smaller ‘pointy’ heel lift, I did just notice that it pokes up just enough that your baseplate won’t sit flat. As such, there is now a little divit in the baseplates of my Spark bindings.

    I noticed this too on the standard climbing wires, but it was easy to remedy on my Voile board. More recent Voile climbing wires have plastic shims under each wire bracket. I just removed these and it allowed the Ignition II plates to sit level on the board. It’s also easier to lift the climbing wire. I figure the shim isn’t necessary, as my older Voile doesn’t have the shim.
    YMMV

    @topodojo IG
    Voile V-Tail 170
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    K2 Taro Tamai boots
    Spark R&D Arc

    #588093
    Plinko
    33 Posts

    @arkana wrote:

    what did you guys use as far as tubing and covering up the metal on those climbing bars? for the life of me I cannot squeeze that small piece all the way up the bar and over the corners.

    shrink wrap tubing? if there is such a thing?

    i’ve even tried slicing most of the tube, sliding it on the bars and then melting it back together. nothing seems to hold.

    Another solution is to buy a can of Tool Dip / Plasticoat from your local hardware store. It’s quick, easy, and durable. Gives you an even plastic coating similar to what you’d find on a pair of pliers. Comes in various coulrs for the fashion forward splitter. :thumpsup:

    #588092
    nothingmuch
    358 Posts
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