Forums DIY and Mods BCA Skin Setup For Splitboard
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  • #574133
    keffler
    319 Posts

    Picked up a set of 140mm BCA skins and modified them for a splitboard for my friend’s Capita Charlie Slasher. Turned out pretty good and thought I’d share it with others in case people are looking for different options.

    First off, take the brand new skins out of the bag and cut off the tip attachment for ski tips. Take this tip attachment and drill out the rivets. This makes me wonder if we could get a discount on the skins from BCA if they just ship us the skins without the hardware mounted. Should now have the tip ring and the sheet metal U. (Sorry no pictures of this step, but you can see later the pieces I’m talking about)

    Next, cut the skins like you normally do for shaping them to match your board. I only cut one side. For those who have not done this before. Take the skin, make sure it is in the right direction. Should feel smooth as you run your hand from tip to tail. Set the straight edge set back from the edge by about two metal edge worth or about 1/8th inch or so. You can always cut more off later, but it is a little hard to add material later 😆 . Follow the curved edge and cut the skin with the provided letter opener. Works real good. Leave yourself a little extra material near the tip and tail for attaching the rings.

    Once the general shape is now set, remove all the paper on the bottom and center the skin like you want it for actual use. I start with the tip. Take the tip ring and put it over the tip. On the side that has the board tip clip, I like to make it so the tip attachment clip is held down by the skin ring. You can see this in the picture #3. Mark where the skin ring meets up with the skin and cut to prep for the ring attachment to the skin. Picture #1 below shows one skin prepped for the ring attachment and the other finished. Side note, you may need to bend the skin tip ring a little to get it to fit over the rivet and tip clip.

    When the tip of the skin is cut for the tip attachment, remove the skin from the board, take the ring and sheet metal U plate and place them on the tip of the skin. Take a soldering iron and make the three holes for rivets (show in Picture #2). I had extra rivets from a BCA tip and tail kit I bought, but I’m sure you can get these rivets at a hardware store. Again, it would be nice if BCA could sell us an option to include everything we need but not assymbled, it would save them time too as it is less work for them. Might try to contact them on this.

    Picture #1

    Picture #2

    Picture #3

    Ok, now you should have a skin with the tip attachment all setup. Now just need to work on the tail. I start by placing the tail stretcher in the position you want it to be when done, then mark on the skin with a wax marker how you need to cut the skin. See Pictures #4 and #5.

    Picture #4

    Picture #5

    Cut the skin along the lines you marked then wrap the skin through the lower loop and back on itself. You skin should now look like picture #6. When both are done, should look like picture #7.

    Picture #6

    Picture #7

    I really like the way this came together. Has a really nice factory look. So far my buddy says that he likes the way the BCA skins feel/work while skinning too.

    Happy Riding!

    -Kef

    #634579
    hyzerbomber
    45 Posts

    Soooo sweet. Nice work!

    (( Donek Hazelwood ))
    • Solid / Custom / 173 Length / 28.9 Waist / CATEK
    (( Donek Hazelwood ))
    • Split / Custom / 173 Length / 28.9 Waist / Spark Dyno DH / Phantom Rocket Risers / SpeedTurn Toes&Heels

    #634580
    powslash
    382 Posts

    Nice job. Thanks for posting this.

    #634581
    jcocci
    699 Posts

    That’s sweet. Wonder if you can buy just the tail clips.

    #634582
    HikeforTurns
    1113 Posts

    Solid Work John! :thumpsup:

    #634583
    keffler
    319 Posts

    Thanks for the comments. Trying to give back to the SB community. Never worked with skins prior to this year, so it been interested learning about how to make these things. So far, I’ve setup boards up with BCA skins and CSD (Climbing Skins Direct). Both seem to be good so far.

    BCA does sell just a tip and tail kit which is $28. Seems like a fair price. You get everything you need to make your skins look like the ones posted (Tip ring, rivets, sheet metal U, tail stretcher). If you are in the Denver/Boulder area, I know Neptune sells them. I’m trying to find the rivets that come in the kit but have not had any luck yet. I’ll post up if I find some.

    One thing I have notice between the BCA and the CSD tail stretchers is that the BCA is a lot softer/easier to pull than the CSD tail stretcher. I set my wife’s board up with BCA skins and it appears that the rubber stretched a little as they were loose last weekend. Not a big deal since I can just pull more material through the tail ring to make it snug again.

    http://www.bcaccess.com/bcastore/english/products/product_detail.php?productID=23053

    #634584
    Killclimbz
    1165 Posts

    This is just what I was looking for…

    #634585
    jbaysurfer
    947 Posts

    I’ve seen and done a lot of diy stuff to my skins/boards, but I gotta hand it too you..this looks like a factory job. Nice work.

    #634588
    mofoco
    94 Posts

    Hey keffler, just wanted to thank you for putting this up, and giving me the confidence to do it myself. Job was straightforward and easy, with plenty of extra skin if you mess up. I’m digging the carpet pattern on the BCA “Magic Carpet” skins. The board in the pics is a Burton Freebird 162.

    I ordered a bunch of gear and some 140mm skins from BCA, and added a note asking for extra rivets for a splitboard skin conversion. They sent a bag of extra rivets along with the skins.

    Biggest pain was dealing with the giant sticky skins flopping around.

    I used a hammer to pry the rivets apart and off the skins. A screwdriver works, too. No power tools needed. I used a soldering iron to melt holes in the skins, but you could use a nail and a candle.

    I like using a brand new razor to trim skins. If you have a slick offset trim tool, go for it. The gloppy glue on the new skins gummed up the BCA-supplied skin cutter card tool real quick.

    #634586
    keffler
    319 Posts

    @mofoco wrote:

    Hey keffler, just wanted to thank you for putting this up, and giving me the confidence to do it myself. Job was straightforward and easy, with plenty of extra skin if you mess up. I’m digging the carpet pattern on the BCA “Magic Carpet” skins. The board in the pics is a Burton Freebird 162.

    You’re welcome. Stoked it’s been helpful. Nice work, those “Magic Carpet” split skins turned out nicely.

    #634587
    mofoco
    94 Posts

    Thanks. I took them out on a few tours and they’ve been good so far. They seem to have more glide than my Voile tractor skins, but a bit less grip due to the shorter hairs. Proper technique can help overcome that, but they could be frustrating to a newb splitter.

    One thing I’ve noticed is I’m getting snow/ice buildup at the tip of the skin. Likely because I trimmed the skins so close to the front tip edge. Wall to wall carpet up at the tip isn’t really doing anything but scooping up snow. Next mod is to trim the skins back in more of a taper from the tip loop to where the board sidecut begins, like the Voile skins:

    #634589
    Jason4
    442 Posts

    In my opinion you can trim a lot more of the skin than that at the nose of the ski. I don’t know about you but none of my attempts while skinning have let me put an real pressure on that part of the ski and it gets worse the steeper the skin track gets. I’m all for lots of skin at the tail but I’ve cut the skin fairly narrow for the first 1/3 of the board. No need for any more weight up there either. Come to think of it I wouldn’t mind playing with a skin that had high traction under the touring bracket and under the tail contact point with high glide plush between them and on the nose.

    #634590
    hoglord
    202 Posts

    I like the Magic Carpets. Nice tail piece.

    #811279
    hambone
    27 Posts

    this is a great thread, any chance you could update the pictures?
    none of them are working for me.

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