Forums Splitboards Voile 2009 Mojo observation/question
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  • #573459
    Snurfer
    1448 Posts

    Anyone with a 2009 Mojo notice the board halves don’t quite match?

    Where the tips meet on my 166 its very tight. Conversely the middle has a gap. As a consequence the inside edges have tended to jump one atop the other, so the bottom of the board is not flush in places. The center edge on one half sits below the other, while the opposite half does this on the tips. Essentially I can catch an edge in the middle of the board. 😯

    I didn’t really see this as a big deal because it pops back into to place under weight. That is until I added the Karakoram board clips. Now its really pronounced. I don’t ride this board much outside of spring and fall because it behaves really squirly on packed out flats. Its pretty clear this is why.

    I entertained the thought that my pucks needed adjustment, but the K clips make it clear this occurs with, or with out the binders mounted.

    Anyways, if you have had this issue you may want to rethink the K clips… While you gain a very solid connection, it would appear anything outside of powder is going to be a crap shoot. Not a fault with the clips, in fact in this case they my work to well.

    I welcome your thoughts, suggestions…

    Very difficult to photograph, but….

    Shark Snowsurf Chuna
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    Spark R&D Arc

    #629975
    prior_rider
    109 Posts

    Looks like it could be a warranty issue if you ask me.

    #629976
    wasatch surf
    979 Posts

    Doug,
    I would send those pics and a explanation to voile. Seems like more than just the standard issue stuff going on here.

    #629977
    Snurfer
    1448 Posts

    Thanks man, I’ll do that, I just wasn’t sure how they’d react since its an ’09…

    Shark Snowsurf Chuna
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    Spark R&D Arc

    #629980
    WhitePine
    503 Posts

    I would imagine that as soon as your bindings are in place across both halves of the board, the mismatch would be eliminated. Have you tried it?

    #629979
    Snurfer
    1448 Posts

    @snurfer wrote:

    I entertained the thought that my pucks needed adjustment, but the K clips make it clear this occurs with, or with out the binders mounted.

    As I said the board has always exhibited this condition (e.g. with, or without binders), but the K clips take all the play out of the system, so it stays stuck in the position I’ve described… With the YinYan clips there was enough play that the halves would plane out under weight, so I didn’t fret over it…. I’m not one to moan about my gear holding me back, and since this isn’t my board of choice I could live with the gap, but now its not really rideable IMHO….

    Shark Snowsurf Chuna
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    Spark R&D Arc

    #629981
    ARKANA
    41 Posts

    I was in-store looking at this year’s very brand new Voile Mojo and noticed this exact problem. There was a significant gap between the ski halves in “board mode”. At least 2 to 3 mm.. so much so that if I put my eye right up to it, I could see right through the other side..like I was looking through a peep hole. I also noticed the skis were not flush with each other at the base. I thought the same thing you did.. you can definitely catch an edge in the middle of your board in “ride mode”.

    I was flat out surprised as much as disappointed to see this in a brand new product. This board had the plates mounted over the pucks.. which tells me when plates are slid through the pucks, clips/hooks are snapped shut.. this board is already defective and hasnt even left the store floor.

    To be honest, I know the Mojo may be a suitable option for splitters on a budget. But comparing this to my last two Prior splitboards (which have been manufactured to perfection and stayed true over multiple seasons) .. I could never think saving just a few hundred dollars would be worth buying a Mojo over a Prior or other similarly manufactured splitboard.

    #629982
    BGnight
    1382 Posts

    Someone just PM’d me about this as this is first time I’ve seen this thread.

    Here we go:
    Karakorams mounted on mojo 166

    I was gonna ride this Wednesday. Do you guys really think this will be noticeable? I’ve never heard of catching an edge in the center of your board.

    Btw, I get this permanent lip w/ my bindings locked in and the clips open too.

    #629978
    wasatch surf
    979 Posts

    @arkana wrote:

    I was flat out surprised as much as disappointed to see this in a brand new product. This board had the plates mounted over the pucks.. which tells me when plates are slid through the pucks, clips/hooks are snapped shut.. this board is already defective and hasnt even left the store floor.

    .

    that isn’t completely true. Small adjustments in the pucks will close the gap. I saw this all the time working at voile, someone would send the board back saying that the halves were all fucked up with the gap, but five minutes adjusting the pucks with the puck alignment tool took care of it. Just because the board has a slider track on it in the store doesn’t mean that the board is set up and ready to go. Voile puts all of the pucks on tight and at a uniform angle, but with the assumption that the owner will take all of that off to adjust it to their stance, as each rider is unique. Therefore there will be some inconsistencies in the exact position of the pucks thus creating and erasing gap. My biggest complaint with the voile interface is puck adjustment. The pucks are time consuming to set up and if done hastily can either push or pull your board halves together.

    However the issue snurfer presented is different than just board gap. Will be interesting to see what happens.

    Is the inconsistency along the entire running length or just the center?

    #629983
    wasatch surf
    979 Posts

    @arkana wrote:

    I was in-store looking at this year’s very brand new Voile Mojo and noticed this exact problem.

    just out of curiosity it was the new mojo RX?

    #629984
    UTAH
    830 Posts

    Hey Doug,
    This mod might help. As much as I am an advocate for DIY splits there does seem to be quite a bit of play between board halves especially the older the board gets and mine are super old. I don’t think it will effect you much but I use this mod on super firm days.



    I know some guys who use this all the time even on their factory splitties. Doesn’t weigh a thing. I don’t mind capped construction but I think the inside edge should definitely be sidewalled just for the fact it will provide more surface area for the board halves to connect on.

    #629986
    ARKANA
    41 Posts

    The model I saw in store was the Mojo SD.. not Mojo RX

    #629985
    Snurfer
    1448 Posts

    Great idea Nic, I’ll have to give that a try. You are correct about the cap construction. Even if tolerances are extremely precise, the surface area of the edge alone is hardly adequate as a mating surface. Particularly with camber under weight.

    BTW sorry I missed you yesterday

    Shark Snowsurf Chuna
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    Spark R&D Arc

    #629987
    Snurfer
    1448 Posts

    UPDATE: First off I’m sorry this saga has crossed pollinated into other threads…

    Took my Mojo to Voile today, and they hit the tight spots with the stone wheel and got things a bit better…
    One caution… If the tips are tighter than the waist along the split… You can shave the inner edge at the tips, but BEWARE you don’t shave too much, causing the tip and tail clips to be misaligned. Otherwise they may no longer clip together!

    Once the guys got it close, I went home and used a file to shave the tight spots a little at a time, rechecking to make sure everything was good.
    The K clip on the tail section remained problematic, so I oval-ed the mounting holes on the flat half of the K clip to introduce some play. Now its still tight, but not overly so. I’d say I got the board to about 95% kick-assness…

    Bottom line, the K clips produce way too much upward force on the boards halves (Cap or Sidewall). Don’t take my word for it, watch your board (sans bindings) flex into an upward V as you shut the clips…

    I still don’t think this is the final word on the board clip conundrum… and I’m going to continue to run a YinYan upfront and K in the back…

    Shark Snowsurf Chuna
    Voile V-Tail 170 BC
    Voile One Ninety Five
    Spark R&D Arc

    #629988
    firstlight
    721 Posts

    @utah wrote:

    Hey Doug,
    This mod might help. As much as I am an advocate for DIY splits there does seem to be quite a bit of play between board halves especially the older the board gets and mine are super old. I don’t think it will effect you much but I use this mod on super firm days.
    I know some guys who use this all the time even on their factory splitties. Doesn’t weigh a thing. I don’t mind capped construction but I think the inside edge should definitely be sidewalled just for the fact it will provide more surface area for the board halves to connect on.

    Snurfer
    I use the same thing Utah is refering to.
    A few picks
    Cloes up

    This eliminates the flexing of the halves between the bindings.
    Well worth it with no mods needed to install.

    Cheers

    Adam West

    www.firstlightsurfboards.com.au
    www.firstlightsnowboards.com.au
    www.splitfest.com.au
    www.snowsafety.com.au
    www.mrbc.com.au
    www.backcountryglobal.com
    www.alpinefirstaid.com.au

    #629989
    nedrapier
    235 Posts

    Just found this whilst looking for something else.

    I have the same problem with the base not matching in the middle. It must be caused by the thickness of the decks not matching, as it’s there when the sparks are slid on, and swapping the pucks with a different board doesn’t help.

    It’s not an issue in soft snow, but can be very disconcerting running a flat base on hard snow or groomers. As has been said, you catch an edge in the midlle of the board, it trips you up moving from edge to edge.

    I guess it can be solved by shimming out one of the pucks to bring the base into line. Pretty annoying though. This is a warranty replacement for the previous year’s delam. I’d have sent it back already, but I’m in the UK and shipping would be dorrar spendy.

    2009 is the 2nd year of the non-rockered mojo, is that right? Between the blocky/flat green and the leaf?

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